Monday - Topkapi Palace and the Bosporus
Early start, breakfast at 7.00, usual array of foods, french bread slices, white cheese, cold meat triangles, spreads, juices, tea, coffee, hard boiled eggs and frankfurter type sausage chunks.
First stop was the spice market, interesting grinders, piles of sweets, spices and teas.
Next stop was Topkapi Palace, 4 gardens, 3 museums and loads of people. First we looked at the kitchens with 15 huge chimneys, rather like china clay ovens with appropriate brick work. Masses of porcelain, mainly Ming (acquired via the spice routes), and green celadon china, popular because it was said to change colour if the food was poisoned. Have to say the exhibits were not very well displayed.
Next it was on to the Harem where the family lived, some quarters were for the eunuchs, others for the concubines. There were masses of tiles in intricate repeating patterns, or building up into pictures. The impression of the Harem was a cross between a home and a prison. Seda said if a concubine was chosen twice, then she became a favourite, and then if she had a child she had a chance to become a wife. Concubines were paid every three months and retired at 30 on a pension with a house, but on their death the house returned back to the state.
Last we looked at the Treasury, fabulous jewels, mainly rubies, emeralds, gold and silver. Diamonds by the ton including one of 84 carats found in a rubbish tip and bought by a spoon maker for 3 spoons. A tiny box made out of an emerald, loads of stunning jewels which front the turban, writing cases, sets of coffee cop holders, jewel encrusted daggers, suits of armour, armoury, various garments and St John The Baptists skull and arm bones.
The gardens were fabulous and peaceful.
Coach trip along the Bosporus and a stop for lunch, (cheese straws, cucumber & tomato salad, chips, fish or chicken and fruit) for 20 Lira. Beers another 5 Lira each. We were not all that impressed. Back on the coach to catch the ferry, but too much traffic, so ended up walking to the wharf. The Ferry took as back to Istanbul, very peaceful, probably snoozed a little.
To the hotel, where we changed before visiting the Pera Palace Hotel to view Agatha Christies room (411), where she wrote Murder on the Orient Express; not a very spectacular room. Better room was where Ataturk stayed, the Father of Turkey. The lift was a spectacular wooden affair in an unenclosed lift shaft; you could watch it going up & down. It had a padded wooden bench, wooden panelling and a lift operator. It was slow and did not always stop level with the floor. A quick drink at the bar and then on to the restaurant Ney'le Meyle. Very good food, beer still 5 Lira each. Here we ate lots of small dishes, sun dried tomatoes, chili, parsley, aubergine dip, yogurt dip, beans, green beans, spinach, sea weed, cheese pastry. This was then followed with lovely spiced flat meat balls. Steve ate Sardines which he ate whole by dropping them into his mouth by their tails. Yuck!
