Yearly Archives: 2019

A walk around Green Park, Reading

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A tour to Reading with the Cambridge Society on a rather wet and unpromising day. We met near to Green Park, parking in the CostCo a short walk from the wind turbine. We then spent the next hour standing in the rain, listening to a talk about Wind Turbines. Interesting to hear the turbine paid for itself in 7 years and has a life span of at least 25 years. The most carbon polluting part of the turbine was the concrete foundation, which could be reused by a replacement turbine. When the wind speed gets up to 70mph, the blades are feathered and its stops generating. If left operating at higher wind speeds, the blades would bend back and start to impact the column as they rotated..

We then went for a walk around Green Park, and the local new housing. Green Park has some footpaths totally shielded away from the office buildings. So you are walking down a muddy tree and bush lined path, and through the leaves, you could see the high tech buildings. A lovely pond centres the park. All the buildings housed Tech companies, Cisco, Symantec, Huawei, Veritas to name a few.

After the walk, we headed by car for lunch at Cunning Man. Not far away, but seemingly miles by road. Very busy pub serving lunches. Not sure now what I ate, but it was fine.

Back Home

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On Monday, we said goodbye to Camping des Playes and headed to Camping Champ d’ete in Pont-de-Vaux, a short distance off the Autoroute du Soleil. A large flat campsite near to the town. There is a small river which joins the nearby Saone. I say a small river, it was big enough to have boats and a marina in the village. It looks like it is easy to walk into the town, and the river must have some good walks along the banks. Alas, the weather was wet and not conducive to walking. The campsite was also about to close for the winter. I shall put this down as a possible place to stay in the future.

The Tuesday we headed off back to Chalons-en Champagne to stop in the same place as when we came out. Not sitting outside for supper this time, instead, there was rain and more rain. The grape pickers had all left as well. We did stop off at the large Carrefour.

Wednesday was an uneventful drive back to Calais and a trip across in the Euro Tunnel. We caught an earlier train and managed to miss most of the holdups crossing the Thames.

Six-Fours-les-Plages

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We had had good weather in Provence, and now it was soon time to make our way home. We decided on a couple of stops on the journey back. This meant we had a couple of days spare. The weather was wet to the North, so we decided to head to the South. We had visited Six-Four-les-Plages a couple of years ago, and there was an open ACSI campsite, Camping des Playes. We headed on down, stopping at a Carrefour Market in La Brillanne for some essentials and dinner.

We arrived at the campsite. nobody around so selected a spot and set up home. The campsite is on the uphill edge side of the town. The site is very hilly, though the individual pitches were all level. There were not many, as most of the site is now small holiday pre-fab homes. They really are everywhere now. There is no way you could get into this place on spec in the season, and I count ourselves lucky there was space. Anyway, we checked in when the receptionist arrived. We didn’t go anywhere today, just chilled out, drank wine and cooked supper.

The next day, Sunday, we were awoken by shooting above us. Yes, the hunters were up before dawn. Today we would go out for Sunday lunch. We headed down the hill to the beach. There is a lovely walk along the beach. Swimmers and surfers on the sea, bars along the road. We walked along the beach examining the menus and stopped at one place, L’Eden bar/Bistro/Millesim for a pastis. The bar was split into several separate areas, a rougher bar, restaurant and night club. Marked it as a possibility for lunch.

We continued into the main area where there was a market in progress. we have been here before, so were acquainted with the fish stores with their whole Tuna fish being caved up to order. We did purchase some bread and started looking for somewhere to eat, the restaurants were beginning to fill up. Headed back to L’Eden, seemed reasonably empty, but of course, as we were not booked, placed inside the restaurant and not on the terrace. The restaurant soon filled up.

We had an excellent meal there, and I had a Negroni.

Walked slowly back to the campsite for the evening.

Les Mourres and Forcauquier

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Our last day had a little less Geology, with more emphasis on the historical and sightseeing. The geology was Les Mourres, a barren area with rock pinnacles rising up. This all started 25 million years ago. The pinnacles were islands of water plants and primitive seaweeds which became embedded in the limestone deposits as deposits were laid down. Over time the limestone was eroded leaving the harder rock to survive, hence the grotesque shapes.

Next, some sightseeing in Forclquier where we wandered through the narrow streets, bought some pastis and then made our way up to the Citadelle. Here we had a picnic lunch and then walked back down for a beer in a bar. The final stop was to the Salagon Museum and Gardens. The Gardens have areas dedicated to Provence agriculture, so there were many lavender varieties. There were also planted areas of medicinal herbs, and finally a world area planted out by continent and country of origin.

There was an issue with their guide which ran from a Samsung galaxy phone. The idea was good, it knew where you were and tried to show you what there was to see. In practice, most of the devices didn’t work for long. We could have been there longer, so much to see. We didn’t get to look into the church.

Back at the Cruis was our final meal. A continuous supply of pizza from the wood-fired pizza oven. The pizza oven was indoors and had been used for most of the cooking throughout the week. The pizzas were good, probably was one of the best meals we had during the week. Seems two of the chaps on our trip have built outdoor bread ovens. Much discussion as to design.

Verdon and Vultures

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A small group of able-bodied strong males and females headed off down the mountain in Wiz’s 4×4 to try to rescue the stricken vehicle. They took a huge jack and rope. The rest of us stayed on the refuge for breakfast, and then walked back down to the one van at the barrier. Here some geology took place. Examining the map of the Geology of the area and trying to see it in the rocks. Only started to work when it was figured out exactly where we were standing.

Afterwards, some of us went down in the van, while the rest walked down to the D17. The stricken van had been rescued. The advice of the Anglo Saxons had been ignored, which was just to tow it out of the hole. Instead, fruitless work with rocks and jacks was performed. This would apparently have gone on for some time. Luckily some French foresters came along, they looked at the problem and advised towing the van out. This was done with no issues.

There was an ancient Roman wall near the junction, some bits were quite stable, other bits totally trashed. While the walkers came down, the guides asked a few to go mushroom hunting for supper. As I arrived down I heard the guide throwing most of the fungus out with cries of Toxic, Toxic.

We headed to the Otherside of the Verdon Gorge to Rougon. This windy road had a lovely stopping place where we could view, Belvedere de Trescaire bas. The cliffs were vertical and we were told this is the highest verticle drop in France. The French guide had climbed it with her father when she was five. The vultures were flying and I photographed some fabulous pictures of them. You could see their nests on the other side of the canyon. Oh, there was a sole climber, on the other side.

We continued down the gorge and at Col d’Ayen stopped. Here took a photo of a mating butterfly and other insects.

At Chapelle Notre-Dame de Beauvoir, we duly admired the star hanging between two rock outcrops.

Soon we were back at Cruis, where the rest of the group were dropped off, and we were left at our campervan for a well-earned shower and clean up. Soon we were back at Wiz’s for supper and wine.

Verdon and Mont Chiran

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Today we packed some extra clothes and sleep sheets. We were going to be staying out tonight. We were headed to a mountain lodge on top of Mount Chiran. There was a small observatory there where we would be able to observe the stars. The timing was such that the moon would be fairly new. Apparently we should have been there the previous day. Luckily there had been an error in the booking. The previous evening it had been cloudy, and the group who had booked the lodge that night had seen nothing, being covered in cloud. Well, there had been storms during the night. We had seen them and heard them. The new day was bright.

We headed to the Verdon George, stopping near to Blieux to examine some rocks. A short distance nearby was some Marne Bleu and Gres d’Arnot in Barreme flysch sequence. We continued driving East along the D21 and D4085 with views towards Lac de Castillon. In Castellane we turned back West and drove along the Verdon river and D952 stopping for lunch at a Le Mur D’Abeilles. We all had a jolly meal. The views of the gorge from here are fantastic. Several vultures were spotted. None close enough for a decent photograph.

After lunch, we headed to Mont Chiran. The drive was along the D17 road which soon became a dirt track. Somewhere along the D17, we turned off onto a smaller dirt track. Here only one vehicle would proceed, the track was too narrow for the larger van. We headed on up to be dropped near to the top vehicle access point. Van went back to pick up the others. Little known to us the other van was now stuck. the ground had collapsed under its rear wheels. A problem to be solved in the morning.

There was now a trek up the final track to the refuge which was at 1905 meters. The refuge was basic. Two bunk beds per room. There were a shower and toilet to all the rooms to share. They were not operational, no water. There was some basic lighting. The actual loo was a sawdust type loo with a view, perched on the edge of the mountain.

The refuge guardian prepared supper for us. A basic three-course meal, with huge gaps between each course.

The views from the top were gobsmacking, especially as the sun went down. In some of the pictures looking East you can see the shadow of the Earth which gives you the red and blue curved lighting effect.

After supper, some of us went to the observatory where we viewed the moon and various planets. Jupiter & Saturn were visible.

The Pelvoux Massif and Variscan sheeted dyke complex

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Left our campervan at 9.00 and walked up to the road to await the vans. Today we were heading North to the Ecrins National Park. We even took the peage today. Our guides had previously staged clear of it. Stopped at the final peage for a loo break. Then another drive into the mountains.

First, we stopped near to Pouillardencq on the D57 where we photographed the distant mountains. Back in the van for a few miles.

We stopped along the D985A near to Saint-Firmin and donned our Gillet Jaunes to view exposed outcrops of rock. One French driver asked us what the demonstration was about! We were able to see dykes. I think it’s amazing to think this area was under the sea, R not so amazed. These Dolerites were fine-grained and made up of hundreds of sheets with thicknesses from 50cm to two meters. Doleritic rocks of this grain size are constructed from numerous small dykes in the Oceanic crust.

We moved off to a river for lunch and then examined the metamorphosed granites. I built a rock pile, which was knocked down by Donny, our geology expert. It was built on one of his prized exhibits, an Augen Gneiss. Augen, from the German meaning eyes, is a coarse-grained gneiss resulting from metamorphism of granite, which contains characteristic elliptic or lenticular shear-bound feldspar porphyroblasts, normally microcline, within the layering of the quartz, biotite and magnetite bands.

We revisited the road stopping place once more for some more viewing. Managed to spot a small wasps nest.

It was back to Wiz for supper where we had a Pastis tasting evening. As the evening came to an end, a storm approached. Lovely displays of lightning and thunder. We were back in the van before the rain came, though we were met by the rain on the trip back from the loo.

Digne Les Bain and the Esclangon

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Left the campsite on foot at 7.40, and were picked up on the main road at the top of Mallefougasse. Our first stop of the day was just outside Digne to see some ammonite fossils. These were right beside the road in a layer of Jurassic mudrocks. You could see several layers, only one layer has these large ammonite fossils. The Rosso Ammonitico Veronese Formation was spectacular.

From here we drove up a spectacular valley with windy roads, steep valley sides. We were aiming to get to the start of the walk up to the abandoned village of Esclangon and beyond, to a view of the “Velodrome”. A few miles before we reached the point, there was a roadblock. Road workers were working on stabilising the cliffs. A discussion was held, and the road was going to be opened during their lunch break. Luckily this was not an issue, as we were also due to stop at the modern village of Esclangon, a couple of miles back.

Here we parked and walked to see some rock outcrops in the nearby woods. In the area, we found some special rock called Carngeules. These are originally are evaporites, which are very weak rocks, and are often exploited by thrusts. Also in the distance, we saw a row of pinnacles.

Back in the vans we were now able to head through the roadblock and stop at the bottom of the walk up to Esclangon. Before we started the walk up, we headed along the road to look at the formidable cliffs. Here we were at the base of the Tertiary, and some Jurassic limestone.

It was now a walk-up, first to the old village where we ate out packed lunch. There was a church here and a closed art exhibition. Also nearby was the original open washing area. We continued the walk up to a pinnacle where there is the viewpoint for the Velodrome. The viewpoint has a spectacular view of the valley and rock outcrops. The view shows an entire sedimentary sequence which is deformed by a very large recumbent syncline and is cut by a major thrust. Apparently it is one of the best exposed, easily accessible and largest tectonic folds to be seen anywhere in the world.

Now it was time to amble back down the path, and back into the vans. It was late enough for the road workers to have finished work and the road was open. Back at Les Mees, one van stayed there for drinks, while others headed back. We headed back as we had to move and I wanted to do it in the daylight.

At our campsite, we packed up, I showered. We were given some of our camping fees back. The French guides then escorted us to our new spot nearer to Cruis. We would be camping in the garden of a gite Mas des Grailles. This was owned by A french man and his English wife who was the translator for the group. The visitor part of the gite was not in use, so we could use the loos and shower. We were also plugged into their electricity.

The journey to supper and back was now a lot quicker, though still had to be done by van. Three course supper based around pasta and an aubergine accompaniment, and lots of wine.

Back at the gite we duly met the dog (a ridgeback) and the cat (black). These had a totally free range. It was disconcerting walking to the loo, you passed the dog in its bed. It totally ignored you.

The Durance River and Sisteron

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Today we were picked up by the graveyard and started our geological education. Our first stop was at Ganagobie, a high point overlooking the Durance River. Here you could see the river terraces aged between 15,000 years and 3.5 Million years. The terraces on the tiver were caused by glacial unloading and tectonic uplift. Some of the terraces took a bit of imagination to see, though roads would hint at a terrace as they tend to follow them.

Next stop was down in the valley to the village of Les Mees where there were Les Penitents. A fine set of cliffs composed of continentally deposited conglomerates and sands. This is a classic example of Molasse deposits. They were produced in the main alpine mountains in the North and transported south by an early reiver Durance 5Ma years ago. The cliffs in parts look like columns, caused by erosion, giving cliff pudding forms which look like frocks.

The formations fueled the imagination of our ancestors. The points on the rocks were said to look like hoods of monks. The legend says they were punished for ogling young women. Their superior decided to petrify them. It is said when mercy is granted, time will resume and the monks will fall into dust. This appears to be happening because on December the 2nd a rock fall damaged several houses.

Back on the road, we stopped across the river from Sisteron where we could get up close to the Roche de la Baume. Here there were fabulous folds in the Cretaceous rocks. Rocks are magnets to climbers, and we were not disappointed. Fossils were found in the limestone.

Across the river was the Sisteron Citadel where we had a tour guide waiting for us. We learnt how this strategic point has always been fortified. It was also the only crossing point of the Durance for over 100 miles. Napoleon on his way to battle the British crossed here. Vauban a fort designer wanted to improve the fortifications in the 17th Century. He was to fort designs as Capability Brown was to gardens. Unfortunately, at the end of WW11, the Allies bombed the fortification, destroying the church.

We headed back, first to the campsite, later we were picked up for dinner and eventually deposited back after a lovely meal. It was now made clear to us that we would have to move the next day to a place nearer our dinner.

France and Mallefougasse-Augès

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In the morning all the men had left from the chalet. The residents of the ridge tents had also left, leaving a couple behind to strike camp and pack away the kitchen, presumably they would make camp at the destination of the cyclists. 

Today we were moving on down south to where our geology course was taking place. All the others on the course were staying in gites in the village of Cruis. They were in walking distance of where our evening meal was being served. We were going to be camping in the next village along called Mallefougasse. This had been agreed, and we would be picked up before supper, and dropped off there afterwards.

We managed to pack away and head off before 10, down South. The road out of Vizelle was a long uphill road. It banned buses and trucks over 7.5 tonnes from coming down. The views were quite spectacular, but peculiar seeing signposts to Vizelle in the direction we were heading. We stopped off at Gap to do some shopping at an Auchen Drive. Large supermarket, and also parking on more than one level. Walking back to Morrison we were concerned to see a woman randomly driving around in one of those small French cars you can drive without a licence. She seemed to be clueless and we did become concerned with the safety of our van.

We continued down past Sisteron on the toll road and turned off at Espace Saint-Pierre and headed to Mallefougasse on a twisty up and down road. Arrived on to our campsite Camping Lou Pebre D’Ail. Fairly basic, a few static caravans and a couple of motor homes turned up after us. There was a group of pylon painters on site. They would leave early in the morning and come back in the evening after dark to eat and drink.

The ‘madame’ was not on-site, we phoned a couple of numbers and were told to settle in and they would come and collect the money. We paid for the eight nights we were going to stay.

The next day we read our geology books, had a lazy day and walked around the local village of Mallefougasse. It was a very small village, did have a restaurant, but don’t know if it was closed or open. There was also a church with some fascinating bells. Despite being small, the village had a Marie, a football pitch and a large recycling area.

In the evening we were picked up by Wiz, and whisked to her house in the next-door village. She was providing the evening meals and our packed lunched. At her house we met the other members of the Geology Society, plus friends Viv & Bill, had some preprandial drinks and a fine meal with wine. I enjoyed Wiz’s Provence inspired cooking, many of the ingredients coming from her gardens, or deposited by a local hunter.

At witching hour we were driven home by one of the French guides. I did sense there might be an issue on our drive back.