Category Archives: France

Jen and Bev 9th-10th

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Packed up from Arcais in the dry and set off for Jen and Bev. First stop was fuel as we were low, Google maps allows you to plot a route and then you can ask it for fuel stations on route. It also has helpful information as to whether the fuel station is open, (important information on a Sunday in France), and also a rating as to its popularity. So we chose a fuel stop on the way and replenished our empty tank, some 110 Euros.

On the way we stopped at a popular Aire Claude Bonnier where we had stopped previously and ordered chips and steak hache from a van. Masses of trucks down the road stopped for their enforced Sunday rest day.

Hardly a kilometre down the road, R (eagled eyed for such things) spotted a “Bric a Brac” aka “vide grenier” aka “car boot”. We stopped. R not impressed by the only Ricard glasses & carafe on sale, but she did buy two old cast-iron laundry irons. She wants them as bookends, for her newly culled library. The owner felt she needed his gas fuelled offering, but she quickly demonstrated its uselessness in supporting “livres”. He regarded us with a “nutty tourists” air.

Arrived at Jen and Bev’s and parked the van with some dexterity on their gravel in front of their house. R delighted to renew acquaintance with Jen’s cat Wilma, who must be 16. Lotty dog ran around in tight circles at 90 mph in great delight, full of joie de vivre. Hector dog retained his dignity.

This year, our bbq outside, cooked by Bev, with many accoutrements supplied by Jen, was not cut short by a thunderstorm.

On the Monday we set out to the village of Oradour-sur-Glane. This village has been preserved with its ruined buildings from June 1944 when the German SS rounded up all the men, women and children in the village and murdered them. A very few managed to escape. 642 of its inhabitants were massacred. Dreadful. A sombre reminder of man’s inhumanity to man.

Afterwards we had a beer in a local bar to brighten us up and then headed on home. The evening meal was at a British restaurant which served large beers and had a British menu. We all ate curries of various types. Mine was a hot curry, and it was definitely a hot curry, not catering for the French taste.

Arcais 6th – 8th September

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Today we packed up the van and left the campsite for Arcais, some five hours drive. A short break, with an hour left to drive, where we went to the loo and drank a coffee.

We arrived in Arcais at 16.21. We chose a pitch in the usual location by the lake and watched a man wade around the pond trying to retrieve his fishing tackle. The van was soon readied, so we walked up along the water ways to see the Eatons who gave us a very good pork supper.

Our next day was a lazy stay at home day. We walked up to the Eatons after breakfast, spent time on the Internet and at lunch. Linda and Rosemary disappeared off to a charity sale, come car boot sale.  R ended up buying 4 glasses to replace the one she’d broken on our first day. In the evening we walked back to the campsite along the canal with bat detector on. We heard bats, but also some other strange sounds at 20Khz which sounded more like a throbbing engine. (I have heard these since and they are quite localised in a tree. Some insect I expect. Wasps fanning in a nest??)

On Saturday we all went into Niort and searched for somewhere to eat. On the walk into town we passed books being given away, (for a donation if you wanted, R never saw the donation bit). R bought a Simenon, and was amazed to see it was first published in 1931 and Maigret was portly. Mike was keen to eat at a particular Thai restaurant, but it was alas closed on Saturdays, but said the patron with great pride, open on Mondays. Does that actually help?? We discovered a new Thai restaurant which did takeaways, and had some tables on the street. The food was fine, but not chilli hot, instead toned down for the French pallet.

Walked around the city and ventured into the old part where there were some fine buildings.

Back in Arcais for the evening, we all ventured to the “hippy bar”, which is open three months a year and has some live music. Tonight, we were entertained to some French Hip-Hop music. R surprised herself by thinking some of it was not bad.

Beautiful bright starlit evening in the campsite.

 

 

Day 2 – Monet et Giverny

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Cloudy and warm day when we set off to Giverny by a route which took us up out of the river valley across some very flat arable land with huge fields and then down back into the river valley and into Giverny. The rain started, or rather the heavy mizzle descended requiring the wipers to go on full time. We parked in the Camping Aire next to some large motor homes. Nearby were some ten coaches, so we realised we were not going to have the gardens to ourselves. The rain had stopped, it was warm, but we did take rain jackets to ward off further rain.

A short walk, via Monet’s bust, took us to Monet’s gardens where we paid 9.50 Euro each to enter.  You walk through the gift shop and into the main gardens. These had some magnificent flowers in closely planted huge borders. R was in raptures.

You cross underneath the road (with the signature green & pink colouring) into the Lily Gardens where you are met with a bamboo forest. We walked across the famous Japanese Bridge which is now covered with wisteria and looks nothing like it was when Monet painted his pictures of it and the pond. You walk around the garden, waiting and taking pictures where there were the least number of people.  As the day progressed there were noticeable less visitors; must be lunch time.

Back across in the main garden we visited the house which was stunning. The yellow dining room was vividly yellow, a great display of copper in the kitchen. R wanted a particular chair in the studio area.

The village income seems totally geared around Monet, with galleries, gift shops, restaurants and gites. The narrow streets were one way, but some were even traffic free. We walked along the length of Rue Claude Monet, past the restaurants, past the bars, past the galleries to the church where Monet was buried. We also viewed the memorial to the impossibly young British aircrew who had crashed and died in their Lancaster, nearby during WWII.

Back to the van, we then drove home, via an Intermarche in a rather unsalubrious area of Les Andelys to buy some beers for the evening. The mizzle started again as we drove across the plateaux and it rained while we were shopping. The was the end of the rain, and we spent the evening eating and watching the river boats pass.

One cruise boat was moored at Les Andelys. Another came up stream and waited in the river to moor. It must have waited in the middle of the river for half an hour for the first boat to leave. The first boat left, we waved at the passengers as they all headed on towards Paris.

Tomorrow we are off the Arcais to see Mike and Linda. Weather forecast to have some rain, and then that should be the end of it. By the time we arrived we should have missed it, and then it’s looking good for the next seven days.

 

Day 1 – Les Andelys and The Trois Rois

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Off on holiday to France (Rosemary asks what is the meaning of a holiday when you are not working). Dismal day, cloudy in the UK and it turned out to be cloudy with some mizzle in France. At least it was warm enough to sit outside for drinks and supper when we arrived in Les Andelys.

The drive to the channel tunnel was a breeze, no speed restrictions on the M25 on the northern route to the tunnel, despite it being the rush hour. I presume the rush hour is a breeze, only experienced drivers and trucks are on the road at that time. We arrived in oodles of time and were resigned to buying a coffee and muffin breakfast before boarding the train. Google had come up trumps; she predicted a travel time of two hours and twenty minutes and so it was.

Once boarded, we sat and read our mobile phones and ipads and listened to the love overtures from the two channel tunnel attendants, luckily in French so we couldn’t understand. So soon we were arriving in France, and straight off on to the motorway.

Yes, it did mizzle on the drive the Les Andelys, which is on the River Seine, it is also about 20K from Giverny.  Still we ate outside in a warmish, overcast evening and I am writing this as it turns to nine. Not so bad.  We are staying at the Three Kings Island campsite or its French name of Camping de l’lle des Trois Rois. It is right on the River Seine where huge barges and Viking river cruises pass by. On the other side there is a small lake with Coots and Grey Herons. The pitches are all hedged off and we have quite a spacious one. There seem to be quite a few Brits and several VW campervans. The grass is green here in this part of France, lusher than at home.

After dark we had a walk around the campsite armed with the bat detector. There were a few flying around which we heard and saw. Over by the lake, there was an almost constant sound of bats, these we never saw because I assume they were flying low over the dark lake.  We managed to disturb a mammal which plunged into the water, an Otter, or Coypu?

Tomorrow we will visit Monet’s house and gardens in Giverny which is some 20K away. It looks like a wet day with maybe 3mm of rain. I will be hoping for some fabulous pictures of rain drops on the pond and lilies.  Afterwards we will have a walk around Les Andeleys where there is a ruined chateau overlooking the campsite and town. Another night and then off to Arcais to see Mike and Linda when the weather will be so much, better complete with sun.

France day 22 – Luxémont-et-Villotte

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Today was meant to be a cloudy day with a bit of sun.  Give me more of these days, it turned out very well.  We decided we would take Van the Van our for a ride to Lake Der.  This is an artificial lake which takes the winter flood water from the river Marne and stores it until the Summer when IT is slowly released back into the river.  The River Marne is a tributary to the river Seine, and joins the Seine where it enters Paris at Ivry-sur- Seine.  This lake and other control mechanisms were built to control flooding of I assume Paris which occurred several times in the 20th century.

Lake Der is now a habitat for birds and there’s also a place for water sports.  We were trying to locate places where we could stop and view birds.  It seemed difficult, all car parks were limited to 2 meters high vehicles, whereas we are a little higher.  The alternative were the Aires, but they were all gate controlled and thus needed to be paid for.  We drove around and were about to give up when we saw a road that allowed us on to the top of the dyke.  At least we could now see the mud flats and the hundreds of birds feeding.  We drove slowly along.  Grabbed a few pictures, but the feeding grounds were too far away for a decent picture.  The lake is at a low point at this time of year because the water is being let out for the winter floods. 

At the end of the road we were back at the parking.  Stopped and decided to check the Aires for the prices.  Was free during the day.  Hurrah, so parked and walked to a nearby hide.  We spent a while watching the birds. 

Now we tried to find a restaurant for lunch.  Nearby, closed, must be Monday.  Another place located, but Google took us down the N road, and there was no way off.  Gave up and went to Leclerc and bought some bread and pain au raisins.

Nice picnic late lunch at campsite, and then a walk down to the Etang.  We walked around it, seeing the work which was in progress.  The place was rather devoid of birds.  There was excitement when we heard a snort and splosh as we walked up to some reeds.  There were tracks in the grass and down the bank.  Some mammal which we never saw, I expect it may be a coypu.  

Back at campsite consumed another bottle of Vouvray and then ate supper, emergency rations of lentils and tuna.  Able to sit out later as warmer in the evening with the protective lay of cloud.  Fun watching one mobilehome moving around trying to connect to the satellite TV.

Tomorrow we are off back home.

France day 21 – Luxémont-et-Villotte

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The night had been chilly, with heavy dew in the morning.  Breakfast of chocolate pastries and coffee.  Lovely sunny day.  We wanted to walk to the Etang available for campers.  So off we set on the short 1K walk.  As we crossed the canal we saw the campsite owner’s wife, dog and another woman on the towpath.  One woman was sitting on the ground and R became a concerned citizen.  So we walked along the canal to investigate, our pretext being to look at the lock gates further on.  The woman on the ground was an artist drawing the canal and bridge, madam was just there chatting to her.  We continued to the lock gates.  They were automatic hydraulically operated gates, much wider than UK locks.  Like the railways, British canals were built on the cheap and are smaller than the continental ones. 

We turned right here and headed out into the country with the intention of doing another right hand turn to get as to the target Etang.  The tarmac road we were on was by far the worst road we had encountered in France.  It still was far superior to most of the country lanes in Buckinghamshire!  After walking across a stream and through a wood we were into open country, huge fields going on for miles.  Next, we came across a marked Etang (on the map) on the left advertised as Carp fishing holidays.  There were some fishermen, and they were English.  On the right with no mention of an Etang on the map, was another stretch of water.  Possibly a newer flooded gravel pit, all fenced off with permission for nothing including building.  It though had one swan.  Here we turned right along gravel road heading for our Etang, passing another Etang very overgrown around the edges, but with three swans.

We came to our Etang, all fenced off, so we walked along the side of it towards our campsite.  We then came across the entrance.  There seemed to be much redevelopment work going on.  This Etang was for the campers, and allowed fishing, bathing, walking etc.  The lake now seemed recently to have been divided into two and had a stoned beach created.  We left, walked back to the campsite.

The afternoon was spent eating, Sunday lunch of pork.  Alas not grilled as we were only on a 6 amp supply, but more stewed on the gas with beans and tomatoes.  We spent the afternoon lazing and reading, then eating a cheese sandwich for supper.  During the afternoon we both were amazed at the number of blackbirds inhabiting the hedges of the campsite.  Not only blackbirds, but woodpeckers, who alas flew away as soon as a glass lens was produced.

Again, the birds provided a musical accompaniment as we ate. Once it was night, the bats and owls arrived.

The village has a pack of dogs somewhere, who decide to howl at irregular intervals.  Also, being Sunday night the lorry traffic on the distant N road picked up and we could hear a distant but constant sound of traffic through the night.

France day 20 – Luxémont-et-Villotte

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We packed up on a reasonable day with the sun attempting to dry the awning out.  The awning was, as usual, a sod to pack.  It is so heavy with the inflatable tubes which are also a pig to totally deflate.  Each time we take it down, the folded package seems larger than ever.  The awning is so difficult to manoeuvre, and you end up dragging it around on the ground making it dirtier and dirtier each time you erect and take it down.  Yes, I was beginning to lose it and wish I had never bought the blessed thing.  A sale on eBay I expect.

We set off in a northerly direction on the toll road toward Dijon and beyond.  Our aim was to reach a small campsite near to Vitry-le-Francois.  Google pulled us off the toll road early to take us on the N67 towards Chaumont.  An excellent choice by our silicon friend.

On the payage we tried to have lunch.  I had always considered French motorway cafes to be superior to our UK ones.  Not anymore.  The first attempt we could not find anywhere to park, except for some useless empty car parks on the other side of the motorway a good 10-minute walk away.  The signage was appalling as well.  The next attempt, at least the café was on the same side of the road, but again the signage was crap, and the place seemed full.  We ended up parking with many other cars in the lorry park.  Then the food, on one counter doing croque monsieurs and coffee, was one poor over-worked girl with a large queue.  Ended up buying iced Starbucks coffee and sandwich.  Christ, white square bread and it tasted sweet.  No sorry UK has it right, choice of foods and now we have M&S or Waitrose selling pretty good sandwiches / wraps / couscous / salads etc.  Sorry France you have lost the plot on convenience foods.

We made it to Vitry-le-Francois and went shopping in a Leclerc. Provisioned now for the next three days.

We drove to the campsite Camping Nature, in the village of Luxémont-et-Villotte, priced at  15 Euro for the night, small campsite.  No nudity, despite R’s initial thoughts on its name. No delineation of parking spaces, but nice green grass and very quiet.  There are five of us here for the night.  Looking forward to the walk to the Etang, and along the canal.  Fifteen kilometres away there is a large lake, built to alleviate the flooding of Paris.  It is meant to have some good bird viewing hides, so maybe Monday for that.

Tonight, we had a bottle of fizzy Vouvray, and the remains of yesterday’s meal (lardons with onion, pepper and tomatoes) with some cravats.   Tasted delicious.  For Carbohydrate some du pain, which I reckon was stale the moment I bought it. But after a quick heat through, it was fine.

Sitting in the quiet as the sun set, there was a raucous chorus of birds settling in a bamboo grove on the campsite.  This was shortly complimented with an aerial display by some bats. Not seen so many bats flying around like this for a while.

The facilities here look good, nice and clean tiles etc. Yet to test the temperature of the shower. R had already complained about the lack of loo seat and chilly water in the plate cleaning area. There though was hot water available in another large laundry sink nearby.  Problem solved.

Near the campsite are rows and rows of flashing red lights.  Are they a landing strip for UFOs?  Google maps show nothing.  Investigate tomorrow on our walk. (Turned out to be lights on wind turbines.)

France day 19 – Cormoranche-sur-Saone

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Another sunny day, Rosemary went off to pick up the bread, it was a baguette, small thing, should have ordered a flute.  Just can’t to get to grips with the varied sizes of French bread.  After breakfast walked up to reception to decide on where we could go for some sites.  We were Abbeyed out, so they were off the list.  I got the list down to three places, a Grand Place where there were outcrops of rock and archaeological stuff, a wine pace and some caves. 

Instead we had a quiet day, walked around the lake, watched the birds and studied the numerous fishermen who had set up camp for the day.  We admired the seemingly empty TGV trains on their way to Lyon and beyond.  We would soon have our HS2 passing nearby us.  Yes these are noisy, and where there is a curve there are screeching rails.  At least they seem to disappear for the French lunch, and don’t start until quite late in the morning and are gone quite early in the evening.  (I am writing this at 21.00 and have not heard a TGB for a while now.)  Ate lunch, read books, nosed at the other mobile homes and campers.

Found an intriguing 2006 Landrover Defender with awning and attached tent.  The tent and awning were in Landrover brown and green.  Transpired they had been to the island of Sardinia.

The Brits across the road in a bigger van were on their way possibly to Spain, but were considering apartments as they were almost the same price as a campsite.

We planned the next day as we were going to be on the move again, this time it was going to be towards Reims. Three campsites, one with horrendous reviews, mainly because people had been refused entry as they were too young, and the onsite mobile homes were in poor condition. Also reports of midges, it though was on a lake and recommended for bird watches.  The ACSI site was in a middle of a town, the guide book said it could be noisy in September because of the grape pickers.  It was next to a vinery.  A third site was called Camping Nature, R immediately thought this to be a reserve for nudists.  Looks OK to me and a relatively small site.  This is my next target, I think. 

The weather looks OK for the rest of our holiday!!

France day 17 – Cormoranche-sur-Saone

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Well organised today, woken by the sun streaming into the window of the campervan top.  Out to the showers, showered, bed made and then I was off to the shop to purchase this damn French bread which goes off in an hour and a couple of pain au raisins.  We were soon packed and were off, paying as we left.  Oh the barrier on exit seemed to take a little bash as we left.  Seemed to appear rather sooner than I expected.

We were heading north, though the weather was improving in the south, it was also improving further north, so we were making a stop a third of the way up the country near to Macon.   This time we were paying and taking the A road all the way.  Most of the journey was uneventful, very windy as there were some definite lively moments as we passed trucks.  And oh yes the French experience the same problems as we do on the their two lane A roads where trucks try to overtake for miles and miles.  Traffic was delayed by one Spanish driver who took 10 minutes to overtake one truck.  The saving grace was the overtaken truck was forced to slow down a little later when it caught up with another truck. Five minutes later the carriage way went back to three lanes!!

We arrived in Macon after four hours and found a large Carfour, bought a couple of days food and wine, and replenished the van with fuel. (nearly 100 Euros as was getting empty).  The campsite was only 10 minutes away.  Across the river Saone in a village called Cormoranche-sur-Saone.  The site is called Base De Loisirs Camping du lac.  The campsite has large individual pitches with hedges and trees separating the plots.  There is a café selling bread and meals.  A large lake and swimming pool as part of the lake.   There is a downside,  a TGV rail line nearby which is used on a regular basis with trains passing every 5 minutes or so.  At least at night, I am writing this at 10.15 pm, the trains seemed to have stopped going by.  Hopefully a quiet night.

The evening was cloudless, our first satellite was spotted, and the pond is a haven for bats.  Importantly the mobile phone Internet connection is good. A great improvement on the Camargue!! 

We are booked for three nights, let us see what there is around here.  Google is suggesting some sites of interest nearby.

France day 16 – Saintes-Maries-de-La-Mer

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Lovely sunny day today, but a strong wind was blowing.  This made sitting outside Van the Van uncomfortable as the wind swirled under the van, around the back and then over the top in a vortex dropping sand into your eyes, food and drink.  You could see a scum of kibble floating on the top of your wine after a few minutes.

Today we went for another walk over the Marais and back along the coast from the East.   This time the flamingos in the salt water mudflats were a little further off and difficult to photograph.  Amongst them were also hundreds of avocets feeding.  We walked across the sand and mud (now wet and sticky after the rain) towards some paths.  Here we found a new eco system of ponds with some gorgeous flying displays from some swallows/house martins?   They were occasionally dipping down to drink from the ponds.

On another water area, which I think connected to the main Etang were three flamingos who I was able to get quite close to and photograph.  These were again feeding.  Love the way they are ringed above the knee. You can even read the id with a scope from a way off.

We walked back along the coast with cyclists passing along the wide tracks. This does look like a place where it is worth while taking a bike with you.   Lots of tracks, and all on the flat.  The sea was rough today, and the sky was picturesque with the blue and the clouds to add texture.  Nothing quite a boring as a totally blue cloudless sky.

Back at the camp we had lunch of beer, bread and cheese.  We had consumed the last of the Camembert yesterday, but even today the fridge still stunk. Today it was some blue cheese bought earlier on the trip.

We walked into town on the pretext of buying some Camargue  red rice.  Not bought because there must be more authentic places to buy the stuff.  R did buy a present of a Camargue wrap around skirt/throw, but later saw, much to her annoyance, that it was made in Parkistan!   We took a break from buying, and experienced a beer at a bar.  No sooner had we sat down, the rain started.   A small cloud which soon passed, but enough to cause a flurry amongst the local shop owners.  The owner of the bar we were sitting in rushed over to help the lady from another shop move her displays under cover.

We left after the beer and walked back home under the lovely sun.  The wind was still blowing back at the campsite, and occasionally the van would rock with a sudden gust.