Woken early morning before light by the pitter patter of rain, and thunder, Very loud thunder which made me jump. At getting up time, the rain had stopped, so breakfast and into town where we bought a roti chicken and some rustique olive bread for lunch from the market. Again stopped Rosemary from buying kittens.
Lunch over and the rain returned. Clear now, let Friday be a better day. Weather forecast looks OK.
First off to a market in the near town of Mouries. Strange things markets, they run them in the morning, with the result that by the time you come to cook your food in the evening, it has all started to breed vast quantities of bacteria and started to stink to high heaven. So though nice markets are, for those without refrigeration and not eating at lunch time, they are rather a window shopper’s paradise.
After a quick look around the market, it was off to Pont du la Gard to see this wonder of UNESCO. I have to be amazed that this stone bridge an aqueduct built in Roman times still stands. Maybe it was too large and too far away from large towns in the Medieval times to have been dismantled and turned into cathedrals and housing. Missing also the industrial revolution of acid rain dissolving the lime stone, suffice to say sufficient of the aqueduct remains to leave a very strong and beautiful engineered structure.
In recent years the French, or was that the EU, or UNESCO have spent a lot of money in building some grand exhibits. I learnt a lot about Roman plumbing, and was left wondering what happened during the dark ages between the Roman rule and eventually the Victorian age when sewers and plumbing came back into fashion. We all probably smelt rather bad. There was a lot to read and view in the underground exhibition hall. The film, (viewing available in English) was though rather trite, and spent more time on glamour and kissing couples. What we wanted were hard facts on when the place was built, why, and what renovation has been done.
Back to the campsite, and down to the local shop to buy the food for the evening meal. Maybe tomorrow as the market is in town we will have lunch cooked with market provenance. I see a lazy afternoon ahead.
Oh and as for weather forecasting, Meteo France got the sun and cloud right, but I really don’t count the extremely small rain shower, 10 drops on me, as showers.
It was a restful night with the lack of wind, but ominous clouds surrounded us in the morning. Down to the bread shop and back with pain au raisins, at 1 Euro each they are cheaper than those at the supermarket in Arles. Don’t buy the pain au chocolat though; not such a bargain. Breakfast over and the ominous black clouds had started to emit rumbles and flashes of lightening, soon to be followed by a torrent of rain which lasted several chapters of the book ‘Blind Eye’ by Stuart Macbride. Screamed my head off at a snake by the tent, but Rosemary claimed it was a very large earthworm. Mmm. Took a look at the French weather forecasting service, they got that one wrong, so not any better than the UK weather guessing service. I hope that’s the case, as they have rain and lightning now for most of the rest of the week.
Rain stopped, so we were off to look at some local sights, so a trip to Arles, a town where Van Gogh lived and drank. May have seen the café where he imbibed, were definitely on the correct street, but alas no café jumped out with signs saying ‘Van Gogh drank here’.
Impressions, reminded me of the 1970s game of Text Adventures with the ‘lots of narrow windy passages’. Large Roman amphitheatre which is still used to this day for shows involving bulls and matadors. No killings though. Not to be outdone by other cities, there appeared to be another amphitheatre only a few yards away. Lunch was eaten at a restaurant in view of the Roman amphitheatre, mousaka and steak (not exactly French cuisine), and then more wandering around narrow windy passages.
The day was pleasantly warm, cloudy with the odd burst of sun. That was what was forecast, not the torrential downpour.
Another night of buffeting and wondering where the tent would end up. Always worse when in the tent at night, compared to outside in the morning. Today did the works at the local grockle spot of Les Baux De-Provence. Here there was a fortified hill that was rather carved out of the limestone more than built. Free to visit the village which consisted of shops and restaurants. Cost five Euros to park in the village or the roads leading up. Energetic scrooges could park a little further out and walk a little more. Parked in the village, early birds, bought the works, visited the ruins, watched the treblechon, photographed the rocks and even a Dragonfly.
Took a look around a gallery, after the mandatory French lunch, which for the Brits, who are not used to large lunches, was a baguette. The gallery by some possibly famous French Provence artist was of pictures of the Provence and his tour around other countries which seem to have excluded the UK. What more can I tell you about him, he was born in 1907, and lived to 1990, and met Picasso in Nice.
Short walk down the road took us to an excavation in the limestone. The excavation was underground, and carefully done to leave smooth plat square surfaces. Projectors then projected (what else do they do) images onto the walls. These were Van Gogh & Gaugin set to music, and an excellent sequence of the seasons, and elements of the earth (you know Earth, Wind, Fire, Water). Was quite spectacular, pictures to be processed and posted at some stage.
Back to the town, dehydrated, and few beers better, went shopping for supper. Good thing we bought all we required, the rest in the larder was being raided by the smallest ants I have ever seen.
Lovely sunny day all day, with a brisk breeze (wish the breeze had not breezed during the night, felt the tent was going somewhere). Today there was an event on in the village Maussnnes les Alpilles, (for those not following the plot, this is where we are camping). The road through the village was shut off, and lots of stalls had been erected. Not a French market but a celebration of the ancient peoples. Lots of people were dressed in clothing from the early 20′ century. Stalls with traditional skills, and traditional schooling and traditional dress. Procession of carts, men, women and children dressed in various clothing from various ages, playing whistles and singing, or just walking. Nice way to spend a few hours sipping a cold beer and watching people walk by.
Lunch purchased from the Spar opposite where we were sitting. Rosemary quickly rushed in as it was showing signs of closure.
After our lunch we went for the ‘Tres Facile’ walk into the Alpilles. This took us along a road, where we were surprised by all the running water, and irrigation channels with sluices. Worked out that water was being piped off the hills and used to water the fields on the other side of the road. Some splendid Mas and some for sale. Walked up into the rocky hills where Rosemary appeared to be a rather prevalent weed. Spotted a couple of different species of Dragonflies. Pictures probably not very good, as they were being buffeted by rather strong winds.
The directions were somewhat ambivalent and we were not at all sure of our location. Rosemary confessed later that she thought we were lost. Made it back after several hours of trekking, in desperate need of beer and pastis.
Wind still blowing hard, as we prepared for another night of being buffeted in our tent.
Different day today. Sun shining. Off on to the motorway and headed south toward Avignon. Here we headed off at junction 24 to our first campsite, a Municipal campside in Maussanes les Alpilles. While getting lost and arguing which road the campsite was on, we get odd looks from some of the locals. Must have been the horrendous noise the engine is making from the bearing on the air conditioning unit which is on its way out.
The campsite is an easy walk to the town, has lots of various plots all separated from the next with hedges. Tent erected after false starts as to which layer, and the inside outsideness of various components. Then the steel hard ground which does not want to be punctured by the flimsy tent pegs.
Off to lunch in the centre, Rosemary who is out of touch with prices was horrified by menus of 25 Euros. We both settled for salads and a drink. Bought some Pastis and sausages for supper, headed back to the campsite and vegged out in the heat for the rest of the day. It was very hot and windless.
Come supper time, clouded over a little, and the wind got up. The campsite map had an arrow with the direction of the Mistral wind. Fair warning I suppose.
Started out much earlier than anticipated and left house at 6.25. Caught the Dover Calais 9.25 ferry after a very good run to the port. Coffee and pastries on the ferry, then down the E15 and E17 to a little beyond Lyon, staying in a hotel at a service station St. Rambbert d’Albon. Decided not to camp, rather torrential rain. Even took a little break at an Aire to let worse abate.
Think I have been caught speeding, sure it was a 90 limit on the motor way, but missed the short 70kph section. Oh well another toll to be paid. Rosemary was gleeful.
R also not impressed with my running on air bit, when the fuel light was on for over 20 miles. Calculations show there was a least 3 litres of fuel left. What had she to worry about.
Had a lovely raw steak hache and chips, and 500ml of wine, and now to bed.
Just a short way to go now.
The final week of our holiday was staying in the Marais, exploring the local waterways and coast.
Still catching up with the gallery of pictures. After the Merlin TV set, we headed on South past Paris, to the Mediterranean and spent a week camping with our good friends John and Carol.
Some sample pictures from the Gallery
Well better late than never. Here is the start of our French holiday to France in 2009. This is a visit to the BBC Merlin set in France, the Pierrefond castle. The pictures in the gallery show the Pierefond castle, and the BBC sets. Enjoy.