Tag Archives: Saintes-Maries-de-La-Mer

French Camping 2023, Day 19 Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer 

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17th September 2023

Up to get croissants and bread for breakfast and lunch. Packed away the damp awning and the van for our travel down to Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer. I decided to avoid the pay roads, and also wanted to ride the road from our present campsite along the Ardeche Gorge. So programmed Google maps to go to Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer, but added a stop at Saint-Martin-d’Ardèche.  OK, seemed fine.

Set out from the campsite, and Google wanted me to turn left not right, there was a quicker route than going down the Gorge. No problem ignored her, and turned right. She recovered and accepted that.  We stopped off at many viewing places along the gorge, admiring the gorge, goats, cars and canoes. The viewing [places all had maps and markers as to which they were.

This was Sunday morning, so the motorbike clubs were out in force on the winding road, meeting up at various viewpoints on the road.  We also saw a number of classics cars pass by on the road. We waved at them and they waved back.

Again, Google butted in and wanted us to turn off on a quicker route than our tourist route. Not a problem, ignore her and she accepted our intent.

Things got sticky as we entered Saint-Martin-d’Ardèche, some strange directions. I twigged eventually, I had placed an intermediate location on some random place in the town. Told Google to drop the stop, and we continued on happily, until hunger occurred.

France has millions of places on the road side to stop for lunch. Not here. We suddenly saw one, too late. I could not anchor hard, because of another French trait; drivers in France love to drive right up your bum. No way could I put on the anchors without being rear-ended.  So, we missed this section of road with loads of eating spots.

We did eventually find a road along the main route, where we could stop for a cheese roll.

Onward we travelled, and were soon at Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer. The 30 km into there is a lovely drive. We tried to ignore the rain but instead admired the numerous riding stables and whte Camargue horses. Set the speed limit to 80km and up and down it by 1 km to keep a reasonable distance behind the car in front. Totally flat, smooth, wide and meandering road.

W arrived at the camp site, the check-in wanted passports, R refused, pointing to the Camping Card International. No, they wanted the “real one”. R tapped it again. They gave in. We’ve stayed here several times, it may be a huge site, but well positioned for the salt marshes as well as the town. We’ve never had to hand over passports before. We paid our deposit on the “beach gate”. We entered the huge site, chose a site and pitched up. Quite windy. The awning was a bit of a pain to erect.

Walked along the coast, could see the track where the air rescue ambulance had landed earlier. A couple of Gendarmes still hanging around. Wonder what had happened. The sea was very rough.  The two restaurants on the beach were not doing much business.

Walked back and cooked a chicken breast meal, with tomato, rice and mange touts for supper.

During the night I regretted putting up the awning. The noise from the flapping kept me awake. The wind was well over 30 kph. Eventually, at 1.30, I got up, disconnected the awning from the van, and anchored the ‘bridge’ twixt the two to the ground with tent pegs.

A short digression about tent pegs. My newish black German pegs* are a doddle to get out of the ground. If it’s a difficult peg to remove, slip another German peg through the handy hole in the top and pull.  Failing that you can rotate it, because the top part is welded onto the peg.  Our Lidl pegs, though thick, have a plastic top. This plastic top has a hole, but it is too small for another Lidl peg. Also, the plastic rotates on the metal peg. Final moan, the Lidl pegs are more difficult to remove, and so cause me great frustration.  i admit that they are definitely a step-up from the original totally useless, plastic awning pegs – hit a rock, they shatter.  But the Lidl pegs are better than the standard UK pegs which bend at the slightest obstacle. We have a collection of bent tent pegs. I totally recommend the German pegs and will buy another pack of 12, even thougth they are expensive. 

* TaylorHe EXTRA STRONG TENT PEGS Pack of 12 Black 25CM 10inch Heavy Duty Metal Steel Tent Pegs

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France – Camargue, Day 6 

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16th September 2022

Today was our last day in the Camargue, we were due to drive west to Gruissan to meet with John and Carol for her birthday. Today we walked into Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer to do some final shopping, birthday gifts for Carol, and of course certain local ingredients for ourselves. We also bought some large French tomatoes to use later. One we added to our left-over Aubergine stew to build it out a bit.

We found a nice bar for a drink and sit down. Despite it being long past lunch time, the restaurants bars were still serving food and did not look inviting for casual drinkers. We chanced upon a very relaxing bar, not crowded with comfortable seats. A drinker’s bar, not a food bar. Thank heaven. The bar was called Bar Des Poetes, and had wall paintings and short verses French poems.

A started off with a Europ beer. I then asked the owner if they had Camargue beer. The jist of the reply was, the beer was too expensive, and with his markup nobody would buy it. The menu board listed Pastis Bleu. R attempted to ascertain what it was, explaining she liked Ricard. The owner regretted it was not made from Ricard, but another pastis. R had to try it cos “it’s such a lovely colour”.

We got talking to some Canadians who were sitting nearby, they seemed to come to the Camargue quite regularly. We also discovered we’d all been to Figueres, whereas we’d been surprised by the Dali museum there, that’s why they had gone there. They had completely missed the typewriter museum. Amazing. That museum was the reason we went there.

After the bar, we stopped at the shops to purchase the rice, some provisions (tomatoes, and also two bottles of Camargue beer) before walking home, but we soon heard news that made us cut our holiday short and head for home.

In the afternoon I went for a swim in the sea. It was quite calm now, with the wind coming in from the shore. While preparing supper I drank the two bottles of Camargue beer, one blonde, the other brown. They were fine, but I wouldn’t go out of my way to buy them.

France – Camargue, Day 5 

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15th September 2022

Today we loafed around the campsite until midday and walked to the town along the beach. We saw that an Aires De Camping had been changed into a normal carpark. Whether it had been moved, or closed completely, I am not sure. Last time we walked this route you could see those in their motorhomes eating lunch in the narrow gap between each home.

We were aiming to catch a boat to view the Le Petit Rhone river and see the Camargue from the water. We had booked the trip online for 30 Euro. We arrived early and sat on some seats basking in the sun awaiting the boat. There was more than one company operating, the first boat left at 14.00, then our boat came in and moored, and we boarded and left at 14.30. Rosemary was the only one to show her ticket on her phone, while everyone else presented their paper tickets. We are modern technologists.

We sat in the sun on the top deck, and were soon motoring out of the harbour, then travelled east along the coast to the mouth of Le Petit Rhone. It is apparently quite shallow at this spot and also choppy.

On view were egrets and herons. We were looking for kingfishers, but none were to be seen. On land there were the Camargue horses and of course the Bulls. There was one place where a tourist show was put on, a handler on shore wearing traditional Camargue dress, herded down some horses and bulls. There were some cute bull calves on show.

Further up the river there were horses and bulls grazing in the fields. We also saw fishing nets used to drag fish from the waters. The fields between the twists in the river were grazed by cattle or fields of Camargue rice.

Our trip up the river ended at a free chain ferry allowing the D85 to cross the river. Here we turned around and headed back to base.

After the trip we had a glass of beer in a nearby bar.

France – Camargue, Day 4

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14th September 2022

There was plenty of wind early in the morning, and a little rain fell. I walked to the camp shop and bought some bread and chocolate croissants. I left it late, so the choice was limited. The bread was already past its sell by minute.

As the day progressed, the wind became stronger, the guy ropes became unpegged from the ground. Lots of remedial attention had to be made to the pegs holding the guy ropes. The ground was soft sand on the windward side. I eventually tied the ropes from each canopy leg to individual pegs drilled deep below the ground. The awning was also showing a tendency to collapse under the wind, so checked the air pressure of the supports, well below the minimum. Pumped these up to max, problem cured.

Late afternoon cooked the ratatouille for the evening meal, then went for a walk on the beach. The waves had reached both restaurants, and all sun beds had been moved to higher ground. Walking was painful with the stinging sand abrading the legs. A dinner plate sized jellyfish was on the beach, some helpful person attempted to save it by moving it to the sea. It left on the next wave, dead or alive, probably the former.

Back at the campsite, the latest influx of new vans arrived. One opposite us suddenly decided to turn around. Maybe because we were sitting in the awning looking out at them. This German couple had a dog, small rough collie job. It just lay beside the van, no lead and just minded itself quietly. There was also another German couple with two dogs who just laid around all day on their dog beds absolutely quiet and well behaved. Is this a German trait in good dog ownership? If so, it is excellent.

One van came into our area, and then nearly took a tree out as they decided the pitch was not for them. They spent quite a while with their RV against the side of the tree as they fruitlessly tried to extract themselves.

Drinks while these entertainments were going on, were enlivened by the sparrows coming around for food. We had well over 20 in the vicinity. I do hope they like the Indian spiced rice sticks.

After supper, in the dark, we could see a major lightning storm inland. This went on and on for an exceptionally long time. We were in clear air with amazing views of the stars. The wind dropped, and there was no sound from the awning shifting in the wind.

France – Camargue, Day 3

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13th September 2022

Today was meant to be cloudy, and windy as a front was coming in. No rain predicted until tomorrow. This proved partly true, though cloudy, there was still plenty of sun. Yes, it was a bit windier.

We ambled into town, stopped at a bar for a quick beer and looked around the shops. Rosemary is thinking of buying Camargue rice, but never getting to buying it, hoping for a cheaper price elsewhere. I chose a restaurant for lunch, Ambiance Tapas. A very small tapas restaurant with seats outside the front, inside, and in the back garden. The cooking all took place in the minute kitchen in the inside restaurant.

We chose from the plates of mixed tapas on the menu, saving us having to decide finer details. While we were deciding, we each had a Ricard (in nice glasses) as an aperitif. I chose the Ambiance Mer, and Rosemary the Ambiance Mixte. Rosemary as a hater for aubergines had a dish of aubergine with honey. It was delicious, she even liked it and wanted to make her own. I’m still waiting.

We wandered back to the campsite, picking up some beers and food on the way home.

I investigated the beach and went for a swim in the sea. It was getting quite rough, so I enjoyed diving through the waves and body surfing back.

The mozzies are still biting, so Rosemary is covered in swellings from the bites. I suggested she take an antihistamine in addition to spraying us and the van in Skin So Soft. I am not suffering quite so badly but am definitely itchy and scratchy.

The wind rose in the evening, so we disconnected the awning from the van, and placed guy ropes in position. The predicted rain during the night never came.

France – Camargue, Day 2

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12th September 2022

A day with differing sunshine. Started off with sunshine, but all the sky to the west was obscured by a solid bank of cloud. This cloud edged slowly nearer and over us.

We started the day with breakfast, some bread and pain aux raisins from the campsite shop. Pain aux raisins, not up to par, not enough gooey syrup and sultanas.

We walked over to see the Flamingos and other birds in the marsh. Managed to grab a picture of a spider eating a dragon fly. Some good shots of small egrets catching, losing, and recapturing fish. I see from the photographs they spear the fish with their beak. They then have to release the fish to get it into their beak. While doing this manoeuvre they can easily lose the fish and have to chase after it to recapture.

Back to the tent for lunch, the sun was now out, and it was getting warm. I went out for another walk on my own, a couple of hours and 8km. Saw some Flamingos who took flight as I approached. Some nice shots of flying Flamingos. Amazing how black their wings look when the birds are in flight.

Back at tent at 5:00 for evening drinks followed by supper.

France – Camargue, Day 1

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11th September 2022

Packed away in the dry and left Moustiers-Sainte-Marie for the Camargue. We headed west to the A51 motorway but stopped at Manosque for some shopping. It was a Sunday, so the supermarket was only open to 12.30. The butchers, fishmongers and cheese counters were not open. There was a limited selection of fresh flesh, so opted for some Tuna. The vegetable and fruit area of the supermarket was a disaster. Old, wrinkled peppers, grotty small selection of vegetables. French supermarkets have lost the plot. We complain about UK supermarkets only serving the best vegetables, and why don’t they serve ‘off’ vegetables. Well go to France, the only fruit and vegetables sold in the supermarkets are off, and the selection is so poor in comparison to the UK.

Anyway a few beers and bottles of wine, and some bread, and we were on our way. Quick stop for some diesel at 1.72. I see some fuel stations sell add blue at the pumps. Not seen that in the UK.

Headed to the A51, stopped at a service-come-fuel station for the loo, and our packed lunch bought at the supermarket. Off again, and then on to Arles where we headed south to Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer, and the campsite Camping de la Brise. Google informed us that it was four years since we had last visited here. We booked in for 6 nights. This site has now joined the ACSI group of campsites. We pitched on a large plot near to where we had previously pitched. It was hot, the dragonflies were flying as well as the less welcome mosquitoes.

A couple of beers later we were ready to eat our fried tuna and potato and bean accompaniment. The sparrows around us, were only too willing to eat any crumbs around us.

Our electricity supply did not work, so some deft use of the Leatherman had the powerbox open, and the trip switch reset. (16amp)

All settled now after dinner, sealed in our campervan away from the biting mosquitoes outside. The dragonflies were very active before sunset, flying erratic courses in their pursuit of the mozzies. Just wish there were more hungry dragonflies around.

The Camargue 20th-23rd September 2018

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Moved on to the Camargue today. Three hour drive to Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer where it was a nice hot 32. We checked in at 1.50 and found some bu**er had parked in our place from last year. So now we were a few meters away. Chilled out in the shade from the van with some cool Ricard before walking to the Inter Marche. More wine and beers and then supper before sunset.

Some bats flashed passed at a great rate after sunset.  Walk on the beach looking out to sea and the moon reflecting on the water. Mars, Venus, Saturn and Jupiter were all in view. So romantic.

Friday in the Camargue

Surprisingly heavy overnight dew. In the morning we went for a walk into the marshes and back along the coast. I was rather warm in the sun. Spoke to a French bird spotter who had the same Collins bird book, so we could swap page numbers! We ate are lunch in the shade of a rather stunted tree beside a path in the Camargue. There were masses of Herons to be see as well as the Pink Flamingos. During the afternoon we walked into town and visited the shopping street looking at all the fluffy pink flamingos and leather boots you could buy. Stopped for a beer and ordered a Monaco.  When it came we were somewhat dismayed to see it was a bright pink colour. Yes it was standard Heineken but flavoured with lemonade and grenadine. Yuck. Unfortunately, I had ordered the 50cc size for me whereas lucky R had a 25cc version.

Back passed the InterMarche for some more vegetables and a bottle of wine.

Poor Morrison was now at the centre of an ant field, with ants now beginning to invade him, so I had to walk back to the InterMarche to purchase some ant powder which I spread around the ground and near where they were ingressing.

After supper we went to the beach for a quick evening walk. The planets and moon were all in view, but the spectacle was not so impressive. (I wonder if the large portions of Ricard and wine the previous evening had anything to do with its better view.)

Saturday in the Camargue

Early morning walk, waiting at the beach gate at 7am for it to become unlocked. At 7.07 it was unlocked and we hurried to the marshes for the sunrise. At the bridge and water control  on the inland side was a seething mass of fish trying to get out to sea. They were large, over 18” and fat. You could see them quite literally leap over the control gate and splash into the water on the seaward side. (The next day there was no sign of this activity.) As we walked down the inlet, the birds scatterd further and further away. On the lake beach there was some Flamingos quite close to the shore. Even these were making their steady escape.

Back to the campsite we passed one photographer at the bridge who was sitting there all camouflaged photographing a heron.

Breakfast and then we walked into town for a beer and Saturday lunch. For me it was some oysters followed by a bull steak and apple pie. Rosemary ate a salad and fried fish. She even ate the skin!

Walked home for a relaxing afternoon and then another fish evening meal.

The evening walk on the beach was not pleasant tonight, we were bitten alive!

Sunday in the Camargue

Another early start to see the birds. This time we tried to walk behind the bank to avoid being detected by the birds. But when we popped around the bank, not a bird in sight on the ditch.  As we walked near to the shore line there appeared two new hummocks, close inspection through the camera revealed netting and lenses stick out of the hummocks. Two birders were there a long time before sunrise in position to photograph the birds. They must have had 30 minutes when it is bright enough for a good photograph, and before the first dog walker or jogger arrives. R counted 14 herons.

Back to the camper where we vegged out for the whole of the day. Way too hot to contemplate doing much, a sentiment seemingly shared by neighbouring campers.

A walk to the beach in the evening was quickly curtailed by the Attack of the Mosquitos.

France day 16 – Saintes-Maries-de-La-Mer

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Lovely sunny day today, but a strong wind was blowing.  This made sitting outside Van the Van uncomfortable as the wind swirled under the van, around the back and then over the top in a vortex dropping sand into your eyes, food and drink.  You could see a scum of kibble floating on the top of your wine after a few minutes.

Today we went for another walk over the Marais and back along the coast from the East.   This time the flamingos in the salt water mudflats were a little further off and difficult to photograph.  Amongst them were also hundreds of avocets feeding.  We walked across the sand and mud (now wet and sticky after the rain) towards some paths.  Here we found a new eco system of ponds with some gorgeous flying displays from some swallows/house martins?   They were occasionally dipping down to drink from the ponds.

On another water area, which I think connected to the main Etang were three flamingos who I was able to get quite close to and photograph.  These were again feeding.  Love the way they are ringed above the knee. You can even read the id with a scope from a way off.

We walked back along the coast with cyclists passing along the wide tracks. This does look like a place where it is worth while taking a bike with you.   Lots of tracks, and all on the flat.  The sea was rough today, and the sky was picturesque with the blue and the clouds to add texture.  Nothing quite a boring as a totally blue cloudless sky.

Back at the camp we had lunch of beer, bread and cheese.  We had consumed the last of the Camembert yesterday, but even today the fridge still stunk. Today it was some blue cheese bought earlier on the trip.

We walked into town on the pretext of buying some Camargue  red rice.  Not bought because there must be more authentic places to buy the stuff.  R did buy a present of a Camargue wrap around skirt/throw, but later saw, much to her annoyance, that it was made in Parkistan!   We took a break from buying, and experienced a beer at a bar.  No sooner had we sat down, the rain started.   A small cloud which soon passed, but enough to cause a flurry amongst the local shop owners.  The owner of the bar we were sitting in rushed over to help the lady from another shop move her displays under cover.

We left after the beer and walked back home under the lovely sun.  The wind was still blowing back at the campsite, and occasionally the van would rock with a sudden gust.

France day 15 – Saintes-Maries-de-La-Mer

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The morning was definitely grey, but the rain did not arrive this morning at Saintes-Maries-de-La-Mer. Late getting up waiting for the non-existent rain.  Once up, we finished the yogurt and pain au raisins.  The agenda for the day was to photograph the flamingos.  Set off under the grey skies towards the flamingos.  First stop was at the sluice gates to photograph the egrets trying to fish.  Eagle eyed Rosemary spotted a kingfisher across the water.  Managed to get a picture, but for id purposes only, as you can see.

We walked on out to the flamingos where there were several groups of 20 or so.  These though slowly moved away as time passed.  There were many birds in the water, and their calls where very loud.   As well as the flamingos, there were gulls of various sorts, sandpipers, shags, avocets and yet to be identified other birds.

On the other bank of the Etang (over  a mile away) there were hundreds of flamingos, just visible as a pink line to the naked eyes.  Other people came by and we were able to lend them the binoculars to see the birds.

There were some amazing fights amongst the gulls. When one caught a fish, all the others would chase it, hoping to steal the fish.

A couple with a dog and large Nikons also came by to take some photographs, one Canon against two Nikons.   The walk back presented on egret wading towards the sluice gate, running, flying and launching at fish.

We ate lunch of Camembert which was stinking out the fridge.  The Rustique cheese brand seems far more potent in France than the UK, and this sample still had a month to go before its self-destruct date.  Fridge now cleared of smelly food, we walked into town.  It dawned on us how many mobile home Aires there were.  Some just car parks, the neared ones to the coast charged, but gave you a water point and a refuse point.

In town we went to the church, and then paid to go up onto the roof.  The roof was made of stones, so we were able to walk to its summit.  By now the weather was good, the sun was out with little cloud in the sky.  After visiting a few grockle shops we headed back.  Sure enough as we sat down, the clouds came in, got colder.  As soon as the cooker was positioned for the duck, the rain started.  Quick dismantle and sat inside the van waiting for the rain to stop.  There was hope from the west, the sky brightened and within 30 minutes cooking started again.  The Germans next door erected their awning and were not stopped from their feast.

The town loves to decorate its roundabouts. Everyone had nice plants and some a scene, or statue or model building.  Several pictures in the gallery are of these roundabouts.

The meal was eaten in dryness, though getting dark.  The stars are out and tomorrow promises to be a nice day, so we are staying on here to try and get pictures of flamingos with blue sky behind them.