Tag Archives: Tanzania

Kilimanjaro Trek – Day 1

Blasdale Home Posted on by

Lemosho Gate (2100M) – Mti Mkubwa Camp (2650M)

Today, Friday 11th February, was the start of the trek. Up and ready by 7.00 am for breakfast of mixed grill and fruit. Afterwards I repacked, splitting my luggage into three, the trekking luggage to be carried by the porters, luggage to leave behind and my day sack. I had yet to see the sleeping bag I had ordered; I was assured it would be there in the tent at the first campsite. Others had also ordered a sleeping bag, even those who had their own bag, saves luggage space.

The group was split into two Land Cruisers, and we headed off out to the start of the epic trek at the Lemosho Gate. The highway was on an exceptionally good tarmac road. (Chinese built for mineral rights?) The traffic was terribly slow, and then there were flashing lights as government limos sped past. Apparently, the prime minister was out and about. Instead of continuing along the tarmac road we set off cutting the corner of the triangle on dirt roads. This took us through a township and alongside many cultivated fields. The townships, and shops looked remarkably like my memory of Kenya 60 years before. Cultivation was in full swing, mainly manual with jembes, and women sowing the seeds. I did see one tractor. (The land behind our hotel had been ploughed mechanically.) This work was all in preparation for the short rains which were due to start in the next week or so. We spotted Zebra on some of the grassland areas.

We eventually re-contacted the metalled road and continued at a fast pace to the Lemosho Gate. There (2100 meters) we had a picture opportunity under the sign. We collected our lunch and filled our water bottles with clean water. Our porters were having their luggage weighed by the park authorities to ensure they were not overloaded and exploited. There were eight of us clients, and thirty-four supporting us. The thirty-four included the tour leader, Jimmy, our guides, cook, toilet operatives, water fetchers, the manager, and the porters. Three porters per client.

We started our walk through the rainforest. There were Colobus monkeys, who remained very hidden, and plenty of birds. I carried my large lens, but no obliging critters posed long enough to be photographed. Part way up the walk we stopped for lunch (fried chicken) so arrived at the camp at around 2.30. The path up was very well made and not steep, it was all through the rainforest. The walk was warm, I wore shorts and a tee shirt. At the campsite, after dusk, it soon became cool, so I wore fleece and long trousers.

At the camp site the sound of thunder boomed around, and the clouds grew larger. This was to be repeated every day. From morning to midday there were no or few clouds. As the day progressed the clouds took over the sky, and thunder then became pretty well continuous. We were lucky to get extraordinarily little rain.

We had an excellent meal of pumpkin soup, spaghetti and meat. We were all seated in a large mess tent with a table and chairs, all brought up by the porters. Several Ravens provided a photo opportunity, they are scavengers on the lookout for a free meal. The night was warm in my rented four-season sleeping bag. The Colobus monkeys provided a noisy soundscape to the forest throughout the night. Some obliging monkeys showed themselves in the morning.

Our Route to the Lemosho Gate and the walk to the first camp at Mti Mkubwa Campcam

Kilimanjaro. Drive from Weru Weru River lodge to Lemosho Gate
Drive from Weru Weru River Lodge to Lemosho gate, and then walk up to Mti Mkubwa Camp
Kilimanjaro. Lemosho Gate to Mti Mkubwa Camp
Kilimanjaro. Lemosho Gate to Mti Mkubwa Camp

Kilimanjaro Trek – Travel Out

Blasdale Home Posted on by

The earlier trip to Morocco had been a practice run for the climb up Kilimanjaro. So, I felt confident I would succeed in climbing Kili. I booked the trip quite late to Kili, the last booking I believe. The Omicron variant initially stopped me from bookin. I thought Tanzania would be added to the red list to join South Africa and several other African nations. It soon became apparent this wasn’t happening, and the red list soon lost its African countries. I booked the trip in January, getting a 20% discount from Explore. Unseen benefit!

I few weeks before travelling, I bought insurance for it, which had to include cover for over 6,000 meters. I also completed my Tanzania visa application online. The visa was granted withing 36 hours.

Despite the wind down of the pandemic, there were rules still to be obeyed for entry into Tanzania. A couple of days before travelling a PCR test was taken and delivered to the pickup point just off the M40. I waited with my fingers crossed for the result to be texted to me the next day. Yes. Negative, so I could travel.

The next day (9th February), I had to complete a Tanzania passenger locator form, and pay $10 for an LFT for when I arrived in the country. Not sure what happens when you fail this test. I assume, holiday over and into state isolation. I decided to travel to Heathrow by train and the Piccadilly line, no way was I going to pay the rip off Heathrow express fares. The alternative, the Oxford Airline bus service, is still not back to its pre-Covid timetable.

Arrived at Heathrow unstressed, checking in quickly, presenting my paperwork, (visa, vaccination status, PCR test and booked LFT). Soon I was in the departure lounge. Many of the bars and restaurants are still not open in Terminal 2. Even the bar I had a pint in closed shortly after I entered.

Soon I was boarding the flight to Addis Ababa, and despite not purchasing My Sheeba Space, I had an empty seat next to me. Ethiopian Airlines was very insistent that I should bid to upgrade to business class, or failing that, I should purchase empty seats next to me, the so-called Sheeba Space. The food on the flight was good. Two meals on the flight to Addis, and they also did not stint on the wine. Another meal and wine on the short flight to Kili. Some European, American, and British airlines have something to learn about when it comes to service.

In Addis I transferred to the flight to Kilimanjaro Airport. This was a fullish flight although there was a spare seat next to me again. I could not believe so many were flying to Kili, only realising later that the flight was destined to Zanzibar, and only twenty people disembarked at Kili. Small airport where I was temperature checked and had my LFT test. (Very gentle tester.) Seems they were testing only the British. Americans did not get tested, and I heard one American demanding her $10 back. I had slept during some of this flight but luckily awoke as we were flying over Lake Naivasha, Kenya. A town I once lived in. Homes and cultivation now surround the whole of the lake.

There was one other Kili client on my flight. We were both picked up and driven to Weru Weru River Lodge around 60 minutes away. All the other clients had arrived on earlier flights through Nairobi. Some had been booked on to my flight but Explore had cancelled their flights and put them on the Nairobi route. This was because of the escalating war in Ethiopia. I think because I was a late booker, the security issues had diminished, and the Ethiopian Airlines option was back on.

We arrived at the lodge, showered, and then met the others for the briefing. The lodge has large well-appointed rooms. There was a swimming pool and bar. Even managed to get a Negroni for a relaxing evening drink. Oh and of course WiFi.

Supper was terribly slow to be served. Despite the number of chefs, it appeared ages to prepare. I ate an Avocado salad, followed by Nile Pike.