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Home→Published 2012 → March 1 2 >>

Monthly Archives: March 2012

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Thursday Condors and Volcanos

Blasdale Home Posted on March 30, 2012 by SteveNovember 12, 2020

Holidays seem to be hard work, up at 5.30 to spot some birds in the highlands of Quito. We travelled by bus to a national park with a fantastic view of the highest active volcano. On the way and on the way back we managed to spot condors flying. Once we managed seven at the same time. In all there are 100 Condors in Ecuador, so we must have seen 10% of them.

We saw all hinds of other birds including the giant humming bird. Back to the hotel and beers and dinner in the restaurant.

Rosemary went to a traditional craft market, where she bought some water bottle holders and scarves.

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Wednesday and leaving the Galapagos islands

Blasdale Home Posted on March 29, 2012 by SteveMarch 29, 2012

Up early at 5.00 and a quick pack and wash, then out on to the Pangas for a quick sortie through the Mangrove swamp. Saw small black tipped shark, Pelicans, a couple of turtles, a couple of species of Herons, on the way back we witnessed a feeding frenzy of Blue footed Boobys. Over 100 diving into the water to catch fish only yards from the Pangas, even on 100 mm I was hard pressed to capture the scene. It was an amazing spectical.

Back on board for breakfast and then we disembarked at 8.30, caught the bus fro the short. Trip to the airport. Checked in and away at 11.30 for the direct 2 hour trip to Quito.

Back at Quito we went has a group evening meal at La Choza. This was an Ecuadorian restaurant. Looked great, but the service was odd, main courses arriving before starters, and the food was in the main not so good. Much of it tasting similar with no strong flavours. I don’t think I will go out of the was to eat the same food again. To bed early as up at 5.00 for more bird watching in the Andes mountains.

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Tuesday on Tower Island

Blasdale Home Posted on March 28, 2012 by SteveMarch 29, 2012

During the night we crossed the equator on our way to Tower Island in the Galapgos. We arrived in the early hours of the morning. I heard the anchor being dropped. Tower island is the top of a volcano, with one side collapsed so boats can enter. It is deep at 250 meters, and the sides are shear. It does not rise far above ground. The boats anchor near the beach where the water is shallower. We were up at 6.00 for our walk. The Panga took us to the far tip of the flooded volcano, where we climbed some steps. Amazing view of the sea birds sitting around. Alas unable to take any pictures, usual problem of the camera lens being steamed up. As we moved off, the lens cleared and I was able to take a few pictures of Red Footed Boobies. Rosemary spotted a Short Eared Owl in a crevasse, was able to get some reasonable pictures of it.

Stormy Petrels were flying up and down the coast. I could see thousands upon thousands. It is estimated a million live here. We did not get close to these birds.

Male Frigate-birds were displaying their red pouches looking for females. Several even flew with their inflated pouches, a risky business in windy conditions, often resulting in aviation disasters. Lots of single chicks were being reared by their parents.

Our last finch was spotted. Rather elusive, so some rather poor photo shots of the Sharp Beaked Ground Finch.

Back on board, we changed quickly for swimming. Pangas taken out to the steps which we had earlier climbed. We swam along the cliffs, I kept in close because there seemed to be little to see in the depths. On the cliff walls there were some lovely sea anonemes and urchins. Some white tipped sharks were spotted. No sea lions, but fur seals instead.

Back at the boat for lunch, and a snooze.

After noon was meant to be a trip on to shore and or some swimming. Instead we elected for a quick swim off the sailing boat and then to motor back to the airport island. A Sea Lion appeared for the swim, though it studiously kept clear of me. Other tourists were rather more lucky. Early on in the trip, before the sun set, we were able to watch a school of Dolphins swim by. There could have been at least 50 and there were jumping. We followed them for quite a long time, even heading back from where we had come from.

We were on the deck for the sen set, have some pictures of the sun going down over the sea. Not a particularly spectacular set, but clear so you could see the green flash as the sun disappeared below the horizon. Lorraine reckons she has the flash on her pictures. The Southern Cross, Orion’s belt and the Plough were in view.

After sunset we crossed the equator and had a celebratory cocktail with the crew, and stood in the captains bridge and photographed the GPS as it made zero.

Supper bell rang and we had our final good meal, well expect for tomorrows breakfast.

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Monday Santa Cruz (Cero Dragon) and Santiago Island (Sullivan Bay)

Blasdale Home Posted on March 27, 2012 by SteveApril 5, 2012

Long trip to Santa Cruz Island overnight, but today was the first time I did not hear the anchor being dropped. Early start, breakfast at 6.00 and then out for our walk. This was an undulating path past some small lakes and then rising slightly to a low ridge which gave a good view of the sea, islands and our boat. There was a lot of vegetation, trees, scrub, bushes. I dropped back from the group, and the silence was wonderful. No sound of people, no sea shore sound, just the squawks of the birds. I have several videos of the area, taken for the bird song.

On the sea shore we spotted a Wimbrel and a Heron. When I was back at the shore there was also a Lava Heron. Walking inland to the lake there were a couple of Flamingos and Stilts. Some pintail ducks also, but I don’t believe I have any pictures of them. Flocks of finches, and insect eaters were to be seen.

Carefully navigating the path, in fear of stepping on land Iguanas we photographed our way through numerous spiders.

Making my way back to the boat I came across a lost Loraine, and then some dragon flies which we stopped to photograph.

On the boat the sails were set, more for show as there was no wind. We proceeded to motor towards Santiago Island, stopping for a short break by a school of Dolphins. There were about 40 of them, and they didn’t really want to play, despite a delegation of humans being sent out on a Panga to parley with them. They did though give me a brief display in the bow wave of the Chacalote.

At around 12 we made anchor in Sullivan Bay on the East of Santiago Island. Hopefully we will meet with the Galapagos Penguins as they make their way home to roost. At lunch we can now only view the very lunar landscape of lava flows and the cones of dormant volcanoes. There is very little vegetation to be seen on this relatively young island.

After lunch we went for a swim, intention was to see some Galapagos Penguins which we did. Chased after them when I saw them, and eventually a group were spotted on the shore, watched these only from a couple of yards away. These two eventually dived in and swam towards me. I could have touched them as they swam past me.

After swimming we went for a walk on the Lava flow. This was really interesting with the glass like solid lava, with the swirls and eddy ripples as it froze. The walk was cut short as the birders became bored with the geology and we made our way back to the Pangas for more Penguin spotting. On the way back 0ne of our party fell and badly cut himself on the Lava. Amazingly, the other yacht in the bay, had a doctor on board who soon stitched him up & bound his broken finger.  Better treatment than at home, we all said.  Darwin had visited this island and had walked to the summit. It had been teeming with Iguana, but now there are no Iguana, all wiped out by the Volcanic eruptions in the late 1800s.

The Panga trip was well worth it, we viewed an area where the lava had surrounded old volcanic craters, then we saw the penguins on the lava flows. Able to get some pictures of them in the dying light.

Supper was more yummy fish, beers and wine. At last I saw the Southern Cross in the skies, along with a magnificent milky way.

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Sunday Floreana Island

Blasdale Home Posted on March 26, 2012 by SteveMarch 29, 2012

The boat weighed anchor shortly after supper and the briefing. On deck we had a good view of the stars, but the Southern Cross was too low to be seen through the haze. A Swallow tailed gull, looking like a ghost followed us across the Pacific to Floreana Island.

In the morning we were anchored off Champion Island. An early start and onto the Pangas before sunrise at 6.00 am so we could see the Charles Mocking bird, found only on Champion Island. This version of the mocking bird is almost extinct.

Back to the Cachalote for breakfast at 7.00 and a wet landing at Cormorant point on the island of Floreana. Here we walked along a black path made of volcanic ash. The low cliffs were also very crumbly volcanic ash. On the beach were two different species of Herons, very obliging had their photographs taken. Walked to a lake where there was a lonely Flamingo. The flamingos are unable to breed due to the rat problem. The rats suck the contents of the eggs out. Was also explained how during the Turtle hatching day, (full moon) the park wardens have to throw nets over the hatched turtles to catch the rats who arrive at the same time as the hatching takes place.

Walked further on to a white beach, here we waded into the water taking Care not to tread on top of the rays. A couple of rays in the shallow water brushed up against my feet. Same time there was a small shark in the water.

Back to the first beach to clamber on board the Pangas and photo opportunity of a couple of penguins. The only penguin species who breeds naturally both North and South of the equator. They are also the second smallest penguin breed, smallest living in Australia, Selina paid this a visit this year.

Snorkelling was off Cormorant Point at the Devils Crown, an old flooded volcano. Here we saw a huge Sting Ray, sharks, usual fish, and I was with feet of Sea Lions swimming. Best Snorkelling of the week so far, clear water.

Back on two the boat to Velasca Ibarra Port. On the way we stopped at Post Office Bay to leave a post card, and picked up a couple of cards for delivery. One was to a doctor at Gonville and Caius collage, Cambridge, and the other to Sawsteon hall in Bury St Edmunds. On the boat again for lunch, soup, then beans, salad and Tuna steaks. We finished off with fruit salad and coffee.

Here we took a bus lorry up to the highlands, on the way it started to rain, but finished in the 30 minute drive up the hill. At the top we saw a place where they where there was a large enclosure for tortoises. These were from many different islands and had successfully hybridised. The park were going to try a test reintroduction of male only tortoises to see the effect on the plant life. A whimbrel was spotted, but no crates.

The return trip was on top of the bus/lorry, which I have videoed. Back on the boat for a couple of beers on deck and then the supper of chicken escalope, potatoes, diced carrots and lettuce.

Boat set sail as soon as dinner was over for a 6 hour trip, we will be up at 6 for breakfast and then an early morning walk. Hopefully some sailing tomorrow as well.

Highlights of the day were the snorkelling, the penguins, I have a picture of one swimming under water minus his head, and also the walking amongst rays on the beach.
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Saturday Espanola Island

Blasdale Home Posted on March 25, 2012 by SteveMarch 29, 2012

Overnight cruise to Espanola Island (Hood), quietly slipping anchor at around 2.00am. Here we landed on another white beach, punctuated at each end with a rocky section. This time the rocks were wet and slippery. Other groups were also on the beach, but were not too intrusive. The edge of the beach was thick shrub, where you could watch birds. Our first sighting of the large Cactus Finch, and A Galapagos hawk did us proud with a flyby. The sea shore had the usual group of friendly Sea Lions with the young suckling, and sometimes being bitten when they chose the wrong mother.

Several orange Marine Iguanas we photographed amongst the rocks, and on the beach. A couple were speeding along at quite a lick.

Sally Light Foot were to be found amongst the rocks, and some very obliging mocking birds came begging for water. After we refused they went off and had a fight with another group of mocking birds, several mocking birds are a *************.

Further along the beach I was able to photograph some finches collecting grass for their nest. These finches I am sure are Large Cactus Finches.

Back to the panga, quick change into swimming gear and we went for more snorkelling. Usual array of fish, though managed to spot a Giant Damselfish. The Rays and Sharks we were hoping to see stayed away, until the ride back to the ship. A couple of mating eagle rays were spotted, this eventually morphed into a large group of rays. I had the chance to swim directly towards a group of 30 Golden Cowray only a few feet beneath. I then turned to follow them, and at some stage I could see over a hundred of these fish.

Lunch was served at 12.00, soup to start followed by a beef stew, salad, rice and asparagus in a cream source. Afters was a strawberry mouse. While lunch was in progress, the boat moved down the island to Suarez Point for our late afternoon walk.

Suarez point was amazing, landing was on rocks, with a walk along the coast. The usual sea lions were lying around the beaches. The lizards and nesting Marine Iguana where lying around the rocks, in one area I could count over 20 individual Iguanas, on the way back within 29 yards there were two groups of 5 Iguana lying together. The sea birds let you walk up and almost touch them, Juvenile Nazca Booby birds still in their fluffy feathers.

The furthest point of the walk ended in a blow hole, and in the distance on the cliffs were several Albatross flying . Male Albatross visit these islands at around this time. The walk back, photograph a juvenile large Big Cactus Finch. As we were leaving a Galapagos Hawk came into view, this circled several times out of camera view. Luckily keeping us on site for the fly by of an Albatross. The Albatross flew by a couple of times before landing a 100 yards away.

Back to the panga, and onto the boat for cocktails and a supper of Red Snapper.

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Friday San Cristobal Island

Blasdale Home Posted on March 24, 2012 by SteveMarch 29, 2012

7 breakfast. Cerro Brujo
8 panga ride

Took a panga ride along the base of the cliffs, and through a tunnel in the cliffs. Few sea birds, but also geological aspects to the ride. Able to see a lava fissure in the cliff wall.

Back to the white sandy beach for a walk. On there there were loads of Sally crabs, interesting to watching them jump from rock to rock. They did not appear to want to get their feet wet, and would rather jump over a foot to another rock. Alas failed to photograph them doing this, should have used the video.

I was more successful in getting diving pictures of sea birds fishing. Interesting to see 5 mm round balls of sand on the beach, this was from the crabs rolling up sand looking for food to eat in the sand. Good picture of Marine Iguanas strolling the beach leaving behind their unmistakable trail.

On the same beach we had some snorkelling, visibility not so good, but fun all the same. Back to boat for lunch, and the boat trip to the port. Here we took the bus up to the el Junca lagoon. Spotted some dragon flies, something called a saddle back. The lagoon is fresh water and is permanently full as the hole is well sealed from leaking despite being in a volcano cone. The water around the lagoon is about 1 kilometre.

From the lagoon we continued on to the tortoise breeding centre and saw several small tortoises being rared for the wild. We also found the xxxxxx xxxxxxx finch,

Back to the port, bought a T shirt and post cards, and a beer. Here you could see the sea lions basking on the gunwales of the boats. Gates were in place at the landing spots to deter sea lions who would otherwise climb steps and start to roam the streets.

Back to the boat and supper.

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Thursday South Plaza Island and Santa Fe

Blasdale Home Posted on March 23, 2012 by SteveMarch 29, 2012

We had an overnight crossing to Islas Plazas with the boat leaving at around 3 in the morning. When we woke we were anchored between the two small long islands, with the other exit looking like it was blocked by Santa Cruz. Started the day with breakfast, and then taken to one of the islands for a walk round. Highlights were the young sea lions playing in the shallow pool by the landing stage, the Sally Light Foot crabs and our first glimpse of wild Iguanas. The walk took us along a cliff path for viewing of the endemic sea birds, the Friget Birds.

Next it was back on to the boat, for lunch and a cruise to Santa Fe island where we had our first swim. On this swim we spotted a turtle which we followed for a while. A fellow swimmer managed to get some close ups photographs. Reminder, next time I come to the Galapagos Islands, buy an underwater camera.

We then landed on Santa Fe islands. A wet landing amongst the Sea Lions, walking along the coast managed to snap several Iguganas, a cactus finch with head in a cactus flower. The strange shape of the cactus plants, tall dark trunks, was an adaptation of cactuses to stop themselves being eaten by Iguanas. Very Darwinian.

Picture of a very nice humming bird hawk moth, also visiting the cactus flowers.

Back on board for cocktails and dinner.

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First day at the Galapagos islands

Blasdale Home Posted on March 22, 2012 by SteveMarch 29, 2012

Up early for a flight to the Galapagos, first we flew to the city of Guayaquil, looking down through the gaps in the clouds, we could see vast areas of low lying farm land and houses under water. The airport had some rather large colonies of Egrets nesting between the runways. A short stop, and then we were off to the island of Baltra, a very small island separated from Santa Cruz by a channel of 200 meters. The airport was fairly efficient, quickly relieving us of 100 dollars each for entry.

Leaving the airport on a bus, then onto the foot ferry to Santa Cruz. Our private coach on the other side took us for our tour. The weather was fascinating, the main land was cloudy, the trip to the islands was clear blue. The islands of course were covered with cloud. Our coach trip took us up to a place where we were due to have a walk and see our first finches, not to be, a deluge of rain. That was cancelled to we went to a private reserve where we saw a barn owl and some romping tortoises feeding. A few birds were spotted, and then back onto the bus to the town of Puerto Ayora for lunch, and a walk to the Tortoise breeding centre.

Now the weather was much improved, sunny and hot, but where we had come from, the cloud still persisted, and rain was surely still falling. A practical lesson in geography. In the town we met begging Sea Lions surrounding the man gutting and filleting Yellow Fin Tuna. At the breeding centre we saw some juvenile tortoises which had not yet been released, and also the old man of them all, Lonesome George.

Back to the town, and we boarded the cruise liner for the week. The boat is a twin masted boat called the Cachalote. Supper was soon ready, and we went to bed pretty early.

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Quito by way of Miami

Blasdale Home Posted on March 21, 2012 by SteveMarch 21, 2012

Monday up bright and early for the Virgin flight to Miami. M25 a breeze, terminal 3 was a doddle. No waiting at check in, no problems at security, just a 3 hour wait for the flight. Why do they ask you to check in 3 hours before the gate closes? Note to self, leave to the last minute.

Flight arrived at Miami, we had a 1 hour wait to get through security, they were also quite a friendly bunch as well. Now to get to the AA flight to Quito. Had to check in again, despite bags making their way between the planes without our aid, then the long queue to get through security. 3 hours was ample time. If we had only 2 hours to make the flight we would have been panicking.

Met a few other Naturetrek punters at the AA flight to Quito, they had not been so lucky, they had flown on an earlier flight to us by AA. Different set of immigration officials in a different immigration hall. Two hours to get through, and some very unfriendly immigration officials.

Note to self, never fly AA, and never pass through Miami.

Arrived at Quito 11 ish local time, and into hotel at midnight. That would be 5am UK time. Quite a long day all in all.

Today had a tour of Quito, cloudy and warm, though rain in the evening. Saw a few churches, and a statue of the Virgin overlooking Quito. Now it’s time for supper.

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