2024 - Page 7 of 10 - Blasdale Home

Outer Hebrides – Lewis Chess Pieces

Posted on May 24, 2024 by SteveJuly 10, 2024

24th May 2024

The day started with a mist/fog and looked really miserable. Anyway, we set off to Stornoway, because we had not visited Lews Castle. There was a museum there, which has six of the original Lewis chess pieces. The drive across the island was in fog, with lights on. As we drove East the weather did clear up, so I was able to turn off the lights. Parked in the grounds of the castle and entered the reception. The castle rooms were not open, a wedding today. The café and museum were open.

We looked around the museum, small but interesting. The chess pieces were guarded by a very talkative Hebridean custodian. He was difficult to stop, and of course Stephen asked about the relationship with the British Museum, and how long they had the 6 chess pieces for. (Good, and on permanent loan.) The six pieces where the King, Queen, Bishop, Knight, Warder and Pawn. Warders are foot soldiers in the King’s army. They are his personal armed guard and part of his royal household. The most ferocious Warders are known as Berserkers because they bite their shields to get themselves ready for battle. The pawn in the Lewis chess set is the only chess pieces that doesn’t look human.

There were other exhibits including the computer which used to run the payroll for the council in the 60s. We ate an early soup lunch in the restaurant, and another talkative employee regaled us about the London 5* chef that ran the kitchens. I presume they did posh food for events and weddings as was happening today. A bowl of soup does not need a 5* chef.

We took a walk around the gardens, rather disappointing, not up to the standard of the museum, or café.

Next, we drove East to view the Aiginis Farm Raiders’ Monument, and the St Columba’s Church (Eaglais na h-Aoidhe) church. They were next door to each other. The church was roofless and derelict but had a waterproof wooden building inside protection the tomb stones.

Drove on to Timpan Head, where there is a lighthouse. Automatic now, so the lighthouse keepers’ dwellings were now a home and dog kennels. Some nice cliffs here and sea birds were flying, nesting in the cliffs

Now drove back to the campsite, stopping at the The Shieling Barvas and Brue. A shepherd’s hut, where they slept while tending the sheep and cattle. R though the shieling was really very cute.

Back to the campsite, a slight precipitation, but not too bad. Running out of food.

Track

Outer Hebrides – Stornoway

Posted on May 23, 2024 by SteveJuly 6, 2024

23rd May 2024

Not a nice night, the wind blew, there were bangs and cracks throughout the night. The weather guess for today is also rain. So we decided to keep the sightseeing to a built-up area, hence we headed over to Stornoway, a thirty minute drive to a free carpark down on the docks near the ferry terminal. The drive across the island was on a straight road, but the land was very barren and inhospitable on either side of the road.

We found the carpark, and as luck would have it, it was in the area of Stornoway with shops and restaurants. Not many though.

The car park was pretty full, there seemed to be a number of vehicles driving around. Eventually they settled on the charging bays and ICEd them. We had no such problem.

A meander around the town, eyeing up the restaurants, while we homed in on the bookshops and charity shops. Rosemary came away with a jacket in the hope she will be warmer tomorrow. Yes, she will, it will be 4 degrees warmer tomorrow.

We also visited a newsagent, where I took a photograph of the newsstand. The Tories had announced a general election, some not very sympathetic headlines, such as ‘Drown & Out‘ and ‘Gone on the Fourth of July‘

Took some snaps of the art pieces on the quay celebrating the herring girls. We have Herring Girls too in Great Yarmouth on the East coast of England.

After the meandering, we homed in on a restaurant for lunch. The first, a 4.6 rated one, we rejected, as it looked too pretentious and austere, choosing the 4.7 called Stornoway Distillers @ The Fank. We had spied it already. Yes, this restaurant also does gin. Unpretentious because you could just eat a sandwich. Both of us started with soup of the day, very good, filling and thick. R for her main had the Ember Roasted Beetroot with Whipped Goats Cheese, Scottish Raspberry, Hot Honey. I was a little more extravagant and ate North Uist Half Shell Scallops with Seaweed Butter, Dill Oil, Kelp Vinegar, Samphire. Both of us were v happy with our yummy food. Of course, it would be rude not to end with a pud, so I had a chocolate brownie, while R had a rhubarb and custard blondie which she voted the best ever.

R had a glass of white, while I had a Scottish craft ale stout from the Black Isle. Yes, its origins were a long way from Stornoway. Oh and R had a G&T with the cafe’s new gin enterprise, started just this month. Called Landfall gin, first bottles went on sale on the 14^th May. She wasn’t that keen, so we did not come away with a bottle. I quite liked the taste, it lingered for a while, and when you breathed out through your nose there was a definite spicy scent.

Weather still rubbish, so we headed to go to Tesco in the van to buy food. Then we went to see the Iolaire Memorial, a monument to men who died in a shipwreck repatriating those who had fought in the The Great War. More than 250 died, 78 survived due to the determination of one man who swam to shore with a rope, see https://www.nrscotland.gov.uk/research/learning/first-world-war/the-iolaire-disaster-1919. The memorial had been opened by the then Prince Charles. R had very recently read about it in a book by Peter May, part of the Blackhouse trilogy.

Walking back it was wet, cold and icy, so we decided to drive straight back to the campsite. We are sitting in the van now, snug with the electric fan heater on, and glasses in our hands. Rain has now stopped, and the wind may be getting less. Tomorrow will be warmer.

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Outer Hebrides – Harris and Lewis – Calanais & Bosta

Posted on May 22, 2024 by SteveJuly 6, 2024

22nd May 2024

Packed the van and left well before 10 am. Weather was windy and cold, looked nothing like the previous day. Back all along the single lane road. Thankfully, there little traffic coming towards us, except for a dustcart with a revolving body to crush the waste. Passed again through the grounds of mansion-type house. How can you live in a mansion with gates, and have cars pass between the house and your lawn, within a couple of meters of your home?

We joined the main road and headed on up North, retracing some of the route we had taken the previous day. We were heading initially to the Calanais standing stones. The drive was long, I didn’t realise how large this island is. The roads were good, but a tad dangerous, we saw some great examples of dangerous overtaking. We also came across cyclists on an incline on a sharp corner two abreast. Some heavy breaking required.

We made the trip ended up at the standing stones of Calanais 1. There were a great array of stones, and a visitor centre. The visitor centre is at the start of a two-year revamp which meant the café was already closed, and the shop and museum were going to close in June, all moving to temporary accommodation. The whole place is being enlarged, and we were told to come back in three years to see the final product.

After ‘1’ we did visit ‘2’, ‘3’ and ‘4’ there are some others. ‘2’, and ‘3’ are in walking distance, but we drove.

We then headed on up the West to Bosta, where there is a very interesting Iron Age House, complete with a well-informed guide, on the island of Great Bernera. All on single track roads. Going back we stopped at the bridges. Tw0 bridges side by side. The old, now pedestrian only. The new bridge, a steel one, started construction in 2020, finished in 2021. This is where the Calanais 8 circle was. While I was photographing that, R had spied an albino seal. We then went past Calanais 1 stones again, thead up to our new campsite. Quite a nice site, seems to have good facilities, but is rather windy at present. Across the hedge to us, was a football pitch, and the entry to the campsite was past a school. There was some sport when we were there, though no balls came flying over the hedge.

A large white van parked next to us, and put up a large tent which we later realised was for his vintage motorbike. He pitched over our pitch, not an issue to us as there was plenty of space. The site owner had told him as he had told us, to park in the middle of the pitch, so there was no alternative but to place the tent over into our pitch. Site owner came around the next day and told him to move off our pitch, also he then charged the bike owner for pitching the awning.

Fried bacon butties for supper.

Before bed, we put the roof down because of the wind. Had the fan heater running to keep us warm.

Track

Outer Hebrides – North Harris – Huisinis Gateway

Posted on May 21, 2024 by SteveJuly 5, 2024

21st May 2024

Today we left the rather hippy, but genuinely nice and laid-back campsite of Lickisto, driving North to Harris. Started off on the narrow roads, but then we joined the main two-lane road, positively a motorway!, which goes around the West Coast. Soon we were into North Harris at the town of Tarbert. Here we stopped off at the Harris distillery an picked up another bottle of Gin. Tastings did not seem to be high on the agenda. Very upmarket place compared with the previous distilleries. They did do tours and sold lots of merch. But looked like prebooking was required, and the car park was full. Most expensive gin on the trip at £44.

Then a stop at a small shop to buy some food for the next couple of days, until we get to the Tesco at Stornoway.

From here we drove to our ‘free’ camping spot for the night. Aiming to get there earlyish so we could get a spot. Sat nav, or rather my settings got me wrong. No voice coming out of the vehicle’s speakers. We sped on past the turn of to Huisinis by 10 miles. Then I saw sat nave telling me to turn off, missed the turn, and got the next. It took me down a very narrow road, and back onto the main road in the other direction. Google hates doing u-turns, instead it will drive you down other roads to get you back on track. (R says its lack of u-turns means it must be designed by men.) Looks like this was the old single-track road from the South of Lewis to the North of Lewis. Every now and again the remains of the old road would appear.

We followed a Polestar! Rather useful because I could see its brake lights when it had to pull in for on-coming cars. When the car turned off to park, I drove up next to them and had a quick chat with the owners.

Anyway 10 miles later, all the way up and down 100 meters in height, we were back on-track, then off on the toad to Huisinis Gateway & the carpark. Yes a very narrow single-track road. R hates these, I love and enjoy them. Later R saw a woman who was totally shell-shocked after driving down to the carpark. She claimed having driven there, the carpark owners should be paying her to park

When we arrived, and the place was chocka, but there was one space. I commented “free camping”. Not free camping; £5 a day time charge for campers, free for cars. Then a £20 overnight charge from 6pm to 10am. Turns out I should have arrived after 6pm when there was plenty of space. There are showers available between 8am and 8pm at £1 for 3 minutes. Plenty of time in my book. A loo is available all night.

The weather & beach were fabulous. We went for a walk around the headland where we met a chap who’d had an accident with his inflatable paddleboard. It had exploded in the sunshine when he’d taken it out of the water for a lunch time stop.I went on for a longer walk and even went for a swim, followed by a hot shower. After supper I went out for a walk to take sunset pictures. Alas some clouds were coming in, and there was a headland that got in the way, but some very obliging Highland cattle posed.

Back at the van at 10.10pm. Next to us was a Defender type LandRover with a sticker saying “Adventure before Dementia” which R found a tad depressing. Very smart vehicle, with an extremely smart steering wheel.

We went to sleep, with more wind, followed by some rain during the night.

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Outer Hebrides – Harris – Lickisto Blackhouse Camping

Posted on May 20, 2024 by SteveJuly 5, 2024

20th May 2024

Sunny day. Wandering back from the loo, R saw a Red Deer doe on the hillside opposite the entrance. She shared the sight with a fellow camper, but I wasn’t around. Down at Otter Lookout I spotted a seal basking on the rocks on the opposite side of the inlet. I sat there for a long time, hoping for otters, or the seal to go for a swim. Snapped a few birds flying by, black herons.

R and I walked further down the road, but it comes to a dead end. Yes, we went on the path, but that became blocked by a fence. I hiked up the hill, but the ground was very boggy and not nice walking on. Went back down. We walked back to site and down to Otter Lookout.

R saw an Eagle being mobbed by corvids above the trees. I was in the loo. Obviously it was her day for good wildlife spots.

After lunch we went for a walk down the other road, wanted to see the other end of the loch. This was rather disappointing as it disappeared into nothing. An inland loch which I though was connected, was connected only by a meter-diameter pipe, well above water level. I left R here as I walked on round to get a view of the campsite from across the loch.

Did stop at one place where there were at least three seals, maybe four basking in the rising tide. Sat here for a while, taking photos of them and others.

Walked on further, but not a lot to see unless I hiked miles.

Back at the campsite we had drinks, and supper outdoors. Smoked salmon, with pasta, pesto and mayonnaise. Lovely quick tasty supper. R had used the campsite’s washing machine.

Faded Ginger came and nuzzed around us, very friendly. Later saw the black cat on top of the roof of one of the accommodation buildings. Later still I heard him thudding around the roof of the loo block. I bet there are.quite a few rodents there.

Sitting outside was difficult, lots of little insects had been encouraged by the warmth of the day. Minute insects with striped bodies. Can’t be midge as they were not biting, but annoying. Sitting in a spot with a breeze helped mitigate their annoyance.

Birds Photographed

Oyster Catcher
Heron
Black Heron
Cuckoo

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Outer Hebrides – Harris

Posted on May 19, 2024 by SteveJuly 4, 2024

19th May 2024

Packed away the van up leisurely and started our journey to the port at Berneray. We stopped at Clachan Sands Camping ground for a picnic lunch. There were a few motorhomes parked on the grass in front of the beach, plus a few tables, benches and a bin. We ate lunch here as there was no alternative. On Sundays everything appears closed. Shops, even cafes and restaurants. The only services in operation are the ferries.

Driving back to the main road, we passed the cemetery which R had coo-ed over as we went past it on our way to the beach. The whole of the ground around the graves was covered in primroses. So this time, I agreed to take a photo, but on her phone so we didn’t need to stop for long. Time & ferries wait for no man.

But, in the end, we made it to the ferry in plenty of time. It was moored at the other end of the causeway. Boarding time arrived, and the ferry came over to pick us up.

The trip to Leverburgh is very twisty, around rocks. Well-marked by buoys, at one stage I thought we were going the wrong side of a green buoy. Going out of the harbour the green on the left, red on the right. Going into the harbour, it’s the other way around. Green on the right, red on the left. At what point does the change occur on the crossing? A critical decision.

We disembarked and headed to Lickisto Black House camping. We chose the shortest route, which took us on the East coast. These were some of the narrowest roads with steep long drops on either side of the road. R was not happy. All the other vehicles departing the boat went around the west coast, where the road is wider, and there are many Harris parking spaces next to the sea. Thankfully, there were very few other vehicles on the road.

We made it to the site. It is kind of idyllic, especially for the hiking or biking camper. Small, secluded, imaginatively-named pitches next to no one, but a community shelter for cooking, reading, and getting warm. It also has secluded pre-erected tents; yurts are stretching it. It’s not ideal for vans, few spots and all together. No dirty water or chemical disposal (not that we need that) on site. We called this site, the Hobbit Campsite, partly because some of the building appeared to be buried into the ground, the windy paths, and the names of some of camping spots.

Extremely friendly cats came to inspect us and our unit. Black cat even had a good look inside. We appeared to pass muster. Faded Ginger just said hello and inspected the outside.

The guy who owns the place says there are otters, and that an eagle was seen yesterday. Of course, today there was nothing.

Birds Photographed

Shag
Razorbill
Arctic Tern
Common Eider

Track

Outer Hebrides – North Uist

Posted on May 18, 2024 by SteveJuly 4, 2024

18th May 2024

Today it looked promising, the sun was shining, and we could see the local radar station. So today we drove up to said radar station where you can get a view of the islands. There is a viewing site called the Saint Kilda viewing point. Yes St Kilda was in site, 40 plus miles away. Did some bird photography. There did seem to be a race up the hill by a couple of vehicles, who were definitely birders.

We were on a sculpture tour today. First stop was at Claddach Baleshare to view a ceramic-tiled bench, called Reflections. It marks the old crossing place to Baleshare before the causeway was built. Disturbed a couple who were there, eating lunch. They soon left.

Drove on to look at nearby Trinity Temple, Carnish. R was delighted to see yellow flags coming into flower. They explained all the huge leaves we’d been seeing.

R wanted a loo break, so we stopped at Langress Lodge for a coffee and cake. Could have had their brunch for a late lunch, but we had already eaten down a picnic by the bench. R loved the wallpaper in the cloakrooms.

We then drove a short distance, parked and took a delightful walk through a pine forest. It had been set up with displays of tiny doors & scenes for children. At the end of the walk, there was a wooden carving of Hercules the Grizzly Bear. He had escaped on the island during the filming of a commercial. The bear also featured in the James Bond film Octopussy and he’d met Margaret Thatcher. The latest cuckoo was in full voice, but we actually saw him this time, accompanied by a small bird.

We drove on to Lochmaddy to see a couple more sculptures on the sea front. Saw the ferry coming towards the port.

R wanted some bubbly, stopped at a shop in Lochmaddy, no alcohol on sale. We drove back to campsite, but saw another shop a few miles from the site, and fuel station. It did have alcohol, also bought a few days of provisions. The diesel price actually was not bad, a couple of pence more than Tesco in Oban.

Back at campsite it started to cloud over and there was a little rain in the late evening when we had packed up for the night.

Birds Photographed

Cuckoo
Skylark

Gallery

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Outer Hebrides – North Uist – Berneray

Posted on May 17, 2024 by SteveJuly 3, 2024

17th May 2024

Today we were to visit someone, who R follows on X, on the Island of Berneray. Eilidh owns a gift shop called the Coralbox.

On route to Berneray, we stopped at Traigh-stir where we had to open a gate to get down the road. Parked in the dunes and walked down to the beach. Could have been a nice spot on a sunny day, and an excellent spot for off grid camping.

A little way on, at Scolpaig Tower, we stopped to view this monument. A strange little tower standing on a small island in an inland loch.

Next stop just before crossing into Berneray, stopped at Dun an Sticir. Here there was a Prehistoric settlement. in a small loch, with rock pathways to get to the site. Also spent some time photographing the birds here. Managed a photo of a Dunlin and an Arctic Tern.

Next stop was at the Berneray Shop and Bistro. Stopping as in urgent need of a loo, so thought about a coffee. We ended up having an early and nice lunch there. Not only was this a café, it was also a small grocery store for the island. The weather was looking up in Berneray. There was much sun and warmth, many opted to sit outside the cafe, overlooking the sea.

Next stop was the Coralbox gift shop. This is at the harbour, quite small and some parking outside. R has been stalking the owner on X for the last few years, oohing and aahing at Eilidh’s photographs of atypical Hebridean beaches. I spotted Eilidh rushing up the hill from the house below to look after the shop. R bought some cards and T towels and discussed the shells Eilidh exhibited in her shop. R admitted to stalking.

We then drove to East Coast, lovely sand beach. I walked the whole beach and photographed some Sanderlings..

Next to the south of West Coast; the road was lovely unpotholed tarmac through the crofts. Small carpark at the end and a walk through the dunes to a huge beach. White sand for a couple of kilometres or more.

A couple of stops on the way back, first to the Ferry port at Berneray, where we would be leaving to continue on up North, and the Co-Op for some food and drink. As we drove near our campsite the weather became cloudy with low lying clouds. It had been like this all day here, while up in Berneray it had been lovely. (Though not very warm.)

Birds Photographed

Dunlin
Arctic Tern
Sanderling

Gallery

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Outer Hebrides – North Uist – Balranald Nature Reserve

Posted on May 16, 2024 by SteveJuly 3, 2024

16th May 2024

Our camping pitch looked towards a cemetery. It was still in use, and a group of men came to cut it grass. Under the cemetery was some long grass and reed, the home of a Corncrake. The strip of bare earth between the cemetery and the campsite is part of the crofting system. I have no idea what was planted there, but it seemed home to a number of Mallards who steadily walked up and down the area.

Today started off cloudy with a stronger wind. Decided to take down the awning down. We went for a walked around the headland, turned out to be around 6 miles. No seals or otters were spotted. The first beach was covered with small shells. Not much bird life here, it was on the windward side of the headland.

Further out on the headland, the coast became more rugged and rocky.

Then around the windward side there appeared to be more birds. Even twitchers looking out to sea.

The sun on this walk did start to come out, then suddenly the weather clamped down looking like it might rain. It did not but it became quite misty.

At the campsite, we missed the snack bar, closed at 3.00 It had some interesting things on offer, black pudding and scallops. In the van we had tea, but wanted cake or biscuits with it, so I was dispatched to the automatic vending machines housed in their own special barn where some groceries could be bought. Shortbread, potatoes, prawns, black pudding.

Gallery

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Outer Hebrides – North Uist

Posted on May 15, 2024 by SteveJuly 2, 2024

15th May 2024

Today was a far better day, the sun was shining, and it was time for us to move up to North Uist passing through Benbecula. We also stopped at many of the places we should have visited yesterday but hadn’t because of the shite weather. We left the campsite at 9.15 and headed North.

First stop was a little after 10, at Cladh Hallan, the site of a Bronze Age settlement, which had been excavated and mummies found. The sand dunes were covered with rabbits and their rabbit holes. Hundreds upon hundreds of holes. We continued walking down to the beach. Beach was huge, with white sand, but was covered in seaweed from recent winter storms. For this stop we parked by a yet another cemetery and walked down a track to the settlement.

Back to the main road for our 2nd stop at the Co-op to buy some lunch, but forgot to buy R any wine. (i’m fine with beer.)

Continuing up the main road our third stop was the Kildonan Museum just before 11.00. The museum was very good. We learnt about the clearances, and life in the Hebrides. How Celtic was the main language, with more influence from Ireland than Scotland.

Next we drove down a narrow track, a dirt road to the Kildonan Beach and parked on the edge of the beach. Here we saw seals basking on the on the rocks. A lone walker appeared from the south and headed inland.

After this visit we drove on North and stopped near a Youth Hostel. Here we looked at a ruined church, and derelict houses. The church and graveyard were fenced off and there were war graves here. In the carpark there were 4 VW vans all lined up. Very smart.

After here we headed to the East Coast where there had been a small port, now barricaded off. A lovely spot. Around here there were some ponies, there was also a field with black pigs. The silence of the inlet was broken by the incessant calling of a cuckoo with the added sound of its call echoing off the far cliffs. Finally, there was the noise of a motorboat. Forgiven because it made a picturesque wake. Driving back a quick stop at an RSPB site. Laziness meant we did not walk down to the lake. A Northern Wheatear was spotted.

We then crossed the sea on yet another causeway to the island of Benbecula. A rather flat island, at least on the route we drove around the West side to get to the North Uist.

Detour to the North Uist Distillery. The lady in the distillery was very helpful, we were able to taste their two gins, neat and with tonic, and were impressed by the flavours. I also sampled their Negroni. So we ended up buying a bottle of Downpour gin (aptly named). As we walked back to the van, I said I was disappointed at not being allowed a bottle of Negroni. So, R walked back to get one. R really liked the gins. The Negroni was a little smoother than the ones I make. I expect it contained classier Martini Rosso and Campari. They were in the process of building a whisky distillery. Should start distilling this year, so must visit again in four years’ time when they will have some young whisky on sale.

A little further North there was another whisky distillery about to open. There are few whisky distilleries in the Outer Hebrides, this appears to be changing.

Before we crossed into North Uist, we stopped at a MacLennans supermarket for more food, and a bottle of pink for Rosemary. I drove to the location fast as it was due to close at 5.00. On the route we had ambulance, police and fire brigade coming towards us. Must have been an accident on Benbecula, or even on South Uist.

Around the North of Benbecula, here there seemed to be a lot of habitation, industry, hospital, police and fire brigade services.

The roads are odd in the islands. Yes, there are many single track roads with passing places, but the large main route up the island is seemingly being improved to two-way roads. These though were short sections which would descend into the usual one lane roads with passing spaces. All with a 60mph speed limit, except in built up areas where it would descend to 40mph and occasionally 30mph

At a steadier pace we finally arrived a Balranald Campsite, set up our van for the next few days, It does have two shower and loo blocks, but quite small. It did seem very busy, and all the pitches were full. We watched a superb sunset at 9.47.