Category Archives: France

Castel Camping de l’Orangerie de Lanniron in Quimper

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Friday, May 12th 2019 Camping l’Orangerie de Lanniron

Another sunny day, we packed up the tent and moved on to Quimper.  Selected an called Castel camping l’Orangerie de Lanniron near to the centre of Quimper. It is set in the grounds of chateaux, (not up to Rosemary’s exacting standards, cos no turrets) overlooking the river Odet, which at low tide is a mud flat. Good grounds, with, I am told, rhododendrons, azaleas & camellias.

Large campsite with gites and a huge camping area. There is also a 9-hole golf course and a couple of restaurants, épiceries and a swimming pool. Alas, out of season most of this was closed, though the bar and restaurant near the entry are open, probably because of the golf course. A couple of weddings were underway in the grounds when we arrived. Expected lots of loud disco music into the late evening, but no, it was all packed up and gone by late afternoon.

The grounds are gorgeous, trees, flowers, birds and open spaces. R says not as claustrophobic as the previous campsite. There should be a 2K walk into the centre of the city which misses the main road in. We shall see tomorrow. Reckon we have struck lucky here, lots of bird song, and relatively quiet despite being near to the main roads. There was so much blossom and flowers. Very tranquil.

The afternoon was warm, T-shirt weather. Cooked alfresco and ate outside. Still writing this outside at 9.30 as the sun is setting and still not cold. Makes a change from a few days ago. Will it be cold tonight?  Last night was, could have done with the thicker duvet.

Saturday, 13th 2019 Camping l’Orangerie de Lanniron

Hurrah, another Sunny day, walked into Quimper. The gate to the footpath was closed, so had to walk quite a long distance to the campsite exit, and then double back along the outside fence. Yes, this was quite an extra walk as this campsite is very large. The footpath then headed down a leafy lane towards the city, under a road and then alongside some city gardens. There was also a field with named Breton rare breed cattle.  

First stop was the bar for a drink of beer. Downmarket bar, part of a Tabac. R, after she went to the loo, decided women weren’t encouraged to drink here. Then on to the tourist bit, cathedrals shops and lunch. The disappointment of the day was lunch, ordered a steak rare and it came out tough and overcooked. Long walk back to the campsite. Did my heart paces, steps and move minutes today. Supper was purchased on the way back at a small supermarket. R had not written a shopping list, so much was forgotten.

At the campsite, we did a final walk around, found the ‘canal’, which did have a load of midgies, and some toads making the most goddamn awful racket. Could not think what it was to start with. A nice place.

Camping de L’ile Verte in Saint-Benoit-des-Ondes

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Thursday, May 9th 2019 Neolithic sites and Saint-Benoit-des-Ondes

Packed away in the dry, not a lot to do as no awning to pack. We backtracked to see a couple of Neolithic sites, before heading on to our next overnight stop.

The first Neolithic site was La Pierre Toureresse, a 25-minute drive. Google took us down a residential road to a field and wanted us to continue on an agricultural road where, according to a sign, only farm vehicles were allowed. We stopped, parked and walked down the track. After a few hundred meters we came to the site. The site had been excavated and documented. Not a great amount to see and we were soon on our way. No signs to the site.

The second Neolithic site was the Tumulus de Colombiers-sur-Seulles, a further fifteen-minute drive. This was a larger site with a large barrow. There was a small car park off the side of the road where we parked safely. Then we could walk a few meters to see the barrow. An earth mound with a lot of neatly placed stones at the base. A lot of reconstruction had been done to make it look like how the archaeologists think it should be. Some explanatory notes and also a reconstruction of a Neolithic dwelling (or shed).

We drove to the coast at Arromanches-les-Bains and sat at the cliff top to eat lunch and look out at the sea at the remains of Mulberry harbours built during the D-day landings. It is so sad, but amazing how quickly these engineering achievements were built during wartime.

Headed on to our new campsite in Saint-Benoit-des-Ondes, passing around Bayeux. Before we arrived at the campsite we visited our third archaeological site of the day, called d’Outre-Tombes. This one again Google wanted to take us up some rather grassy uphill roads. We ignored these and found a road which was signposted, metaled but narrow.  Again a not impressive array of stones, which did not correspond to the map. Presumably, because the French had used this site to demonstrate the way stones could be moved without machinery. One stone had the following notice on it. 11 Juillet 1999 a l’aide de cordes, 173 personnes ont deplace a la force de leurs bras, ce bloc de granit de 31.5 tonnes, sur une distance de 13.11 meters. A second block had: Juillet 2000 l’equipe de ‘C’est pas sorcier’ est venue filmer por la television, la technique de levage de ce menhir.  All I can say is in 6000 years some archaeologists excavating the site will be confused by the locations of the stones.

Arrived at the campsite Camping de L’ile Verte in Saint-Benoit-des-Ondes, erected awning, achieved an impressive time for this, and then went for a walk. The campsite had nice large pitches with high hedges. Made for privacy, but R was claustrophobic. The site road was narrow, and the hedges went to the road which did make parking and positioning a tad difficult, especially with the caravan across the way having its towing hook almost on the road.

During our walk, we noticed a few restaurants and oyster outlets. The place selling oysters had its own washing tanks and large arrays of oysters in tanks of water. Impressive. Could not understand why there was no security over the tanks.

Friday, May 10th 2019 St Malo and Cancale

Today was meant to be a wet day. Stayed dry for longer than expected. We travelled to St Malo to fuel Morrison. Down to his last 70 miles, he had done well with 644 miles on the one tank of fuel from the UK. 111 Euros spent and he was replenished. The supermarket was huge, R bought herself a sweater, so was now warm. Can’t say the vegetable counter was any good, so little choice. Also, the cheese counters seem to have shrunk from what they used to be. A few ingredients for meals purchased.

We then attempted to park in St Malo by the docks but failed in this endeavour. All carparks have a 1.90-meter height restriction, and most parking on the street required payment at meters and we had no coins.

We gave up and went for a drive around the headland and back to the campsite. Stopped at a nice beach called Plage de la Varde , ate lunch and managed a walk, and then down came the rain. Continued to Cancale and looked at the hundreds of fruits de mer shops.  Back at the campsite supper and then the rain all night long.

Saturday, May 11th 2019 Lunch out in Saint-Benoit-des-Ondes

The ground outside was very soggy after the overnight rain. Slow getting up, waiting for the sun to show behind the clouds. Went for a walk along the shore, investigating the restaurants. We eventually chose the nearest, called Carte Sur Table. Quite a nice looking restaurant inside. It does have two outside areas for dining. The front terrace and the garden terrace at the back. We chose to dine inside as it was not yet warm. Unfortunately, when we entered we were the sole dines, though a few more turned up later.

An Amuse Bouche was immediately presented. It was very tasty cold mushroom soup.

 I chose Oysters to start with, and Rosemary a salad. Her salad was huge, while I received more oysters then I thought were arriving. Oysters were predictably lovely.

For the mains, I chose John Dory. John was quite large and was presented with potatoes, cauliflower and carrots with a sauce on the side. R started with a salad (again!), followed by cod stuffed with leeks and bacon in cream sauce. For the end, R went for some vanilla ice-cream, while I had a selection of smelly, local cheeses.

The afternoon was predictable spent snoozing in the warmth of the canopy. A quick walk by Steve to earn his Heart Points.

Camping Bords de l’Aure in Bayeux

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Monday, May 6th 2019 Deauville and camping at Bayeux

Left Camping Saint Nicolas, Le Bec-Hellouin. Taking down and packing away the awning/canopy was fairly straight forward, even fitted into its bag on the first attempt. I call that a success.

We headed over to Deauville and parked in the station car park. Walked across the road to the marina where we admired the yachts. One was even leaving under sail in the marina. The buildings along the streets were a very different style to ones I have seen elsewhere. Lots of tall roofs and unneeded small pinnacle type roofs. I thought they must be a nightmare to keep watertight where they joined the main roofs. Rosemary, of course, loved them, as she thought would our roofer back at home. Walked into the main town square where there is a fountain, with eight roads all coming in together. A quick stop for lunch which we ate in a picnic stop on the road to Bayeux

Set up camp in Bayeux where we were staying in the municipal site on the river L’Aure. Decided not to put up the canopy as the green space was quite small. Still nice campsite in the middle of town, so we would not be doing any driving while we are here. We took the riverside walk into town, about 20 minutes and looked at the main places we would be visiting the next day and planning the restaurant we would stop at for lunch.

Two beers before we walked back to campsite, were over 11 Euro ☹ . Walked back to the campsite and set up for the evening meal, Toulouse sausage stew. Yum Yum.

Tuesday, May 7th 2019 Bayeux Tapestry Museum and Museum of Art and History Baron Gerard

Still sunny, thought it was going to be more cloudy today. Stayed fairly bright and almost warm the whole day, slight drizzle after 7 pm. Started the day with our order of Pain Au Chocolat plus cereal, eaten outside.  We then walked into town and headed for the Bayeux Tapestry.  Here we bought tickets that would allow entry into several museums for 15 Euro.

The first part of the Tapestry museum was the Tapestry. There you are issued with an audio guide. There is no stopping the guide, so make sure you go in with a gap between you and the people in front. This ensures they have moved on between the sections, so you have a good view of the tapestry. For something nearly a 1000 years old, it is in remarkably good condition. We also learnt a lot about Harold which I had not known. It seemed from the Norman propaganda viewpoint that he and William were almost good pals, and that Harold had gone to see William to vow allegiance to him agreeing that he, William, would be the next King of England when Edward died. It seems that Harold went back on his promise and was crowned King, causing William to come over here and fight for his “rightful” Kingship. R made a note to do a spot of googling on the subject.

After the main course, you go upstairs where there is an exhibition on the history and the further wars which William had to fight to keep England under control. Well worth seeing.

Next, we went for lunch at Le Pommier where I started with raw Salmon, followed by a Fish Gratin with spinach. Rosemary started with a salad of vegetables and fruit, and then chicken with a lemon and honey sauce, which she said was far better than it sounded. We both ended with a lovely creme brulee, very shallow, but a large dish, maximising the brulee.

Onto the museum of the Museum of Art and History Baron Gerard, a very newly renovated building housing and exhibition concentrating on the history of the area which took you from prehistoric times all the way through to the 1800s. R was overcome by the bobbin lace making, and really liked the white ceramic pottery made in the 1800s. This included the usual cups and saucers, and also laboratory ware.

Back to the campsite, where we had a small snackerel, drinky poos and eventually sat inside at around 7 pm as a small amount of precipitation started. Due to be coming down harder during the night.

Wednesday, May 8th 2019 Bayeux Normandy Landings Museum

Mixed weather today, it rained and the sun shone. Started out late because of the rain, no matter, no big itinerary. We also decided to eat lunch out, again to offset the drizzle.

First was a visit to the Normandy Landings Museum. This told us the story of the D day landings, with potted resumes of the main generals on all sides. There was a mixture of diagrams showing the armed forces, and words to explain the actions. Videos in strategic places to show the terrain and actions which were occurring in the battles. Many physical remains from the war, from shaving cream, cigarettes, bullets, gas masks, and radios. Even spotted one radio transceiver which looked very much like one my grandfather had in his shed. I wonder what happened to that.

There were descriptions of the planning, the landings, the French resistance and Charles de Gaulle.

Nearby, there was the British Cemetery, and also a memorial to journalists killed in action. The memorial for journalists listed by year the journalists killed in action on large upright stones. The list is large with so many killed. Presently it goes up to 2018, the 2019 deaths to be added. We then walked around the British cemetery. So very, very sad.

We walked back to the centre, just arriving at the restaurant we had eaten yesterday. 2.30 was too late for a French lunch, despite the wording outside saying 2.45. Now it really started to hammer down with rain. We searched around several other restaurants, all saying they closed at 2.30. We sheltered under a canopy and debated a pizzaria (there seem to be loads of these in France these days) or the creperie place opposite where we were standing. This was open all day. We ate some very tasty galettes (Ie a crepe made with buckwheat flour).

Next, we visited the Cathedral, far more ornate and spacious than the one we had seen earlier. Prince Charles had visited here on the 70th anniversary of the end of the war and had attended a ceremony where a new bell had been installed in the belfry, making a total of 17 bells.

Walked on back to the campsite, where we spotted another English VM camper van. We went over to chat with them about their bike rack on the back. A VW rack which they were pleased with.

Simple supper of cheese and bread, hopefully, the smell in the fridge has now gone. The goat’s cheese did not smell much when individually smelt, but the fridge was highly pongy. Yes, the fridge was much better after the removal of the cheese.

Route planned for tomorrow, some Neolithic stuff, and a campsite near St Malo.

Camping Saint Nicolas in Le Bec-Hellouin

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Friday, May 3rd 2019 On our way to Le Bec Hellouin

Set off from home at 6.30. I wondered why Google wanted me to go around the South of London, maybe she knew better and there were road works or accident. A quick look at traffic and yes M25 was closed but between the A41 junction and the M40 junction. Puzzled we ignored her and continued on down the A41. She was persistent, telling us to go South. Suddenly it twigged, I had set the no toll road option in readiness for France. With the aid of my backup Google Sat Nat operative, changes were made to the options and all was well. She now liked our route and stopped her nagging.  A timely reminder, we needed to buy a crossing pass, so again the co-pilot logged on to the Dart payment page and paid for two crossings.

Arrived at the terminal in 2 hours and 30 minutes and were now faced with 1-hour 40-minute wait for departure. Normally when you arrive early you are offered an earlier crossing. Not today, the terminal looked very busy. This called for breakfast at the LEON café, some playing with the Twitter and then onboard the Eurotunnel. The crossing was under 40 minutes, and then we were straight off to our first stop.  Google programmed back onto avoid toll roads. A short break at a BP garage for coffee and to check Twitter, then we were shortly at Camping Saint Nicolas in Le Bec-Hellouin. This campsite we visit regularly. It is around three hours from the port and has nice walks down to the abbey. While we were there we bought the ACSI camping site guides and camping card. By the end of the holiday, we had recouped the cost of these and made a considerable saving in out of prime season campsite fees.

This year we had taken the awning, erected it in lovely sunny weather, and sat outside drinking our JDs, Ricard and locally produced Farm Cidre. We must remember not to buy this Cidre, it is not the best. We treated ourselves to food at the campsite café, Moules Avec Roquefort, while R had a huge omelette and chips.

Another British VW camper-van rolled up next to us with a young loud couple. She was especially loud ?

Saturday, May 4th 2019 Visiting Honfleur and Pont-Audemer

Alas, the rain came in during the night, breakfast under the awning. One advantage of the awning is you can leave stuff in there, and it’s quite quick then to disconnect the van and drive off. First stop was food shopping at the nearest town Brionne. We had walked there on a previous visit. It takes 12 minutes to drive and over an hour to walk over some hills and through woods. Still raining, but dying off as we headed on to Pont-Audemer where we had a walk around quite a busy shopping centre and quaint town. Of course, it was closing or closed up as it was now 12.30.

Not far now to Honfleur, a quaint touristic town on the Seine where it meets the sea. Parking alas was on a meter and was 4 Euro for 2 hours. Lots of restaurants selling Plateau de fruits de mer. Now have a base guide price of around 45 Euro for an FDM. Not sure what the attraction is of this town, but it did seem busy with tourists and guides taking coach, or river cruisers around through the streets. Could be a stopping point for river cruises.

It had stopped raining and the sun was out, so back to the campsite where it was lovely and sunny. (Still managed to have a heavy burst of rain at 9.00.)

Supper, R was not feeling good, so I ate toast and pâté.

Sunday, May 5th 2019 Evreux and Medieval jousting at Harcourt

Quite a cold night, the sun was shining, but clouds around. Despite the weather forecast, there was rain. We set off to Evreux to see the Notre Dame cathedral. Are all cathedrals called Notre Dame? Found somewhere to park, the city was deserted, all the cafes and restaurants were closed. The cathedral was also deserted, met only two others leaving. No chance of a French Sunday lunch!

A wander around the city we came across a car boot sale. Nothing we liked, R always looking for Ricard glasses and flat irons. 

For the afternoon we stopped off at Harcourt, fortified chateaux and arboretum. This was on our way back to the campsite. We were surprised to find the village heaving with people, and car park attendants routing us to playing fields to park. It was a special day, they were having a Medieval fare with jousting, the French against the British. Even managed to down a French-made IPA beer. Strong and quite tasty.

Back at the campsite, it was now sunny, and almost warm under the canopy. Supper cooked as a sausage stew and some wine. Took a quick walk down for the Abbey to get my exercise and to see that the place was still there. Tomorrow we are off the Bayeux.

The Drive Home from France

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We packed up in the dry and were soon on the road. One stop at a Carrefour in Nimes to buy some Ricard for Rosemary, and t hopefully some drinking glasses to match those bought before, but no luck with the glasses. So on to the motorway to stop overnight in Aire at Perrogney-les-Fontaines. We ate a meal in the restaurant, watched “Paddington 2”  (excellent) on R’s ipad and turned in for the night. Having travelled up North, it became a tad chilly under the thin, summer duvet.

We set off at dawn (not before, so did not have to attach the beam deflectors) for the final trip to Calais and the Channel tunnel. Delayed at the tunnel for 30 minutes because of some technical hitch, and then we were on our way.

I notice they have a mobile signal, including data in the tunnel now. The streaming music did not stop!

The M20 seems to be under reconstruction along its length, keeping us to 50 most of the way. Is this some planning for Brexit! The tunnel under the Thames was its usual badness, the bridge is not a problem, so why the hold up with the tunnel which has four lanes. I then noticed the traffic lights and barriers  which are there to stop oversized vehicles from entering. They did go red, and barriers closed while we were waiting in the queue. Maybe there are many culprits attempting the crossing, result chaos.

On to Provence

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We set off from the very nice Camping Les 2 Bois in Baratier. We were told we must come back and tell everyone about the campsite.

We decided against motorways and toll roads, the saving in time was not spectacular. Instead we were presented with some spectacular scenery as we drove along lakes and rivers, over many cols and through ski resorts. As we were leaving Baratier, we made a stop at a Super U drive to buy some lunch for the journey, and in Grasse we stopped at a Leclerc for the next few days’ suppers.

Grasse was a disappointment, not easily accessible parking and lots of twisty lanes going up and down the hillside.

Arrived at the campsite,  Camping la Bergerie, and checked in, we had to be connected to the electricity, the power supplies being under lock and key. The maximum power was 5 Amperes which was not enough to power our portable induction hob. Oh well, we still have gas.

Our nearest neighbours I thought were climbers setting off early each morning, but it turns out on examination of their van and their clothing that they work for a company called CAN which specialises in works where access is difficult. The type of work is securing wire netting to protect from rock slides along roads. Now I saw the use of their climbing equipment.

On first glance the buildings for the loos, showers looked run down from the outside, (Provence style stone and clay tile roofs) but inside they were tiled and clean.  Even the bar and restaurant were open.

There were some bitey mozzies around, and things that look remarkably like New Zealand sandflies. I took to wearing long trousers and socks in the evenings. However, some even smaller buggers found their way through.

Tuesday St Paul de Vence and  Gourdon

Today we drove into the nearby town of St Paul de Vence. This is a fortified town on a hill, complete with walls and a cathedral, remarkably called Notre Dame. Some English campers had suggested where to park and the best “road” from there into town. We wandered our ways around the twisty narrow lanes working our way to the top. All the roads were paves in wonderful patterns of pebbles,

St Paul de Vence was very much centred on art, every shop had some art theme. I liked the head of Tin Tin decorated with various stories from his adventures. Other shops were selling large size pears (1 meter high) partially eaten into the shape of a woman’s body.  We did find some very nice pepper grinders ?.

We left and then went on an adventure back to 1999 when I paraglided from the town of Gourdon. First stop was the village of Gourdon to view the actual, official landing site if you were lucky to get the height to travel down to it. We saw a hangglider had landed, and then watched another land. 

The town of Gourdon is another hill top fortified town with tourist shops selling Provence goodies, this time at a good altitude with some very steep and treacherous roads to get there. A lemon pressé for a drink and then on to the paraglider launch site. The way out we took was even more interesting.

The paraglider launch site was a few more miles up the hill from Gourdon and then another K or so off piste.  There were not many people around, one guy walking and another who was preparing for flight. While we were there another group arrived and walked further up the hill.

We waited and the man preparing for flight eventually took off on his Ozone. I photographed him, he said some French words, we left our details on what we think was his car. Never heard from him.  So I have lots of photographs of a someone flying at Gourdon on an Ozone Geo.

We drove back home on some spectacular roads around the Loup and past the Cascades du Saut du Loup.

Wednesday and Vence

Left Morrison the Van at the campsite and look the local bus into Vence. Hey, a possibility of a drink and lunch. Bus arrived and ten minutes later we were in Vence. Walked down the street to the centre, where Rosemary spied an antique sale. I sat down and admired the scenery while she toured the stalls. Only comment from her was that if you divided their prices by 20, then it would be UK prices.

Another walled city. We visited the Notre Dame (so original in names), built on the site of a Roman fort in 400AD. There were some notable exhibits, including wooden figures of Christ and other participants in the Passion Story which had been carved in the 1500s and recently found in a shed. The Choir was had been built and carved in the mid 1400s, and then 40 years later, it was moved up a floor because it was too big to allow free circulation of people during services. I did want to go back and photo one of the misericord carvings after seeing a picture of it flash up on a screen.

The walled city with its very narrow streets, gates and cobbled roads was wonderful. We ate at lunch in a French Café on one of the streets. So lovely to sit there in quietness, until the French busker came along. We ignored him intently, but he still played 5 songs with long interluded conversing with one of the diners

After lunch, we found the tourist office where we hoped to get to the belvedere. That floor was closed, but we did see some exhibits of a Polish writer.

Walked back to the bus station and waited for the late bus. Home and then supper.

 

 

On to Embrun

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Driving to Embrun

We headed off today for Embrun, taking the toll road to cut the journey by an hour or so. The périphérique around Lyons was fun (well, I thought it was) with continually changing lanes and large quantities of traffic. Not so fun was the French driver on his mobile phone gesticulating in a very Gallic manner, but who suddenly decided to move into the same lane as me at the same point along the road. A very quick and hard brake saved the day. Despite blaring at him he seemed totally oblivious to the near accident and was still gabbling on his phone and gesticulating. I expect he was steering with his knee!  Where are the Gendarmes? There are signs to them at turnoffs. Maybe this is why?

A short stop to buy a loaf of bread and then later to eat, during which time R got herself stung by a wasp, to add to her collection of mosquito bites.

As we approached Embrun we had a quick rethink about which campsite to visit. One with a washing machine and tumble drier was high on Rosemary’s list. So we ended up staying in Baratier a couple of K from Embrun in Camping Les Deux Bois. The Madame was not in residence so we did a quick tour of the site and discovered the washing machine and tumble drier, so they were still in service despite the season.

But Madame found us, and ladened us down with pamphlets, maps, the wifi code & her phone number lest we get lost. She was very helpful in finding a pitch with the correct sunrise and sunset positions. She was also very careful to ensure all temporary residents were not on top of each other. Delightful lady.

This night we had a meal of pork strips (cannot describe them), onions and celeriac and a bottle of Provence rosé.

Friday walking around Baratier

Friday was a bright and sunny day, Thursday had mainly been sunny, but a short shower had occurred as we had reached Embrun. We went for the short walk on the Baratier map where we saw some Roman ruins and Meadow Saffron flowers. (Typically, R insisted I photo these at great inconvenience to me. When we returned to our pitch, there they were.) This walk was mainly on the level and started from the Place du Village.

Arriving back, we had lunch in the Bar La Cantine, a three-course meal starting with salad (fish, or gizzards) and then mains of Lasagne or Moules Frits. (Also dessert which only I managed.) All were very good, you can guess who had which main. R, yet again, managed to find a cat, a pretty long haired tabby with white stockings. Wretched animal did not like moules! Can you believe it? She’s French for goodness sake. I had to leave that one on the side of my plate.

After lunch, R vegged out whereas I went for a quick walk 7K walk with a 420meter rise. I managed to just beat the suggested duration of 2 hours 30 minutes, but was pretty knackered when I got back. R had read several chapters of “The Essex Serpent”.

Neither of us fancied anything to eat for supper.

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Saturday walking to Embrum

Today we decided to explore Embrun, and took the rash decision to walk there. Most of the way was on a fairly busy road. Our first stop on arrival was a gallery with an exhibition called the Bleu Nuit, sic, not Nuit Bleu. This took place in the L’Abattoir, an exhibition space for the community. The building was small and old and I assume not now used for its original purpose. There were some fabulous tables for sale, at fabulous prices. R liked the metal animal sculptures, again with fabulous prices.

We then wandered into the old part of the town, and enjoyed a beer at Jack’s Bar, before more sightseeing. At another bar we watched the market being dismantled and the street cleaner come in and clean up the mess.

By this time, we were thinking of lunch, though many of the cafés were busy serving they seemed to set a time of 13:15 to stop new customers. Alas we had missed lunch, so we continued our walk back home on another route, across a small bridge and along some quieter roads (being taken unaware by a chap resembling a Hare Krishna monk plus his dog) and accompanied by much moaning from R re her knees, the sun, etc etc. (I recalled her moaning re the lack of sun when we were in NZ. Do not understand women, or at least my example.)

 

 

Sunday French Lunch

Decided to stay on for another day and have a French Sunday lunch. Disaster – the café where we had eaten on Friday was closed on Sundays. Quick inspection of various sights in the village. I walked up to the Hotel des Peupliers and booked a table for two for lunch in my bestest French. (Phrase ready on my google translate.) Well that went well, except I seemed to make a bog-up of the time.

Arrived for lunch before others, but soon the restaurant was full both inside and outside. Our orders were taken by a delectable woman who had lived in England for a couple of years so spoke English very well.

I do like the simplicity of the menus, one decision removed is the cost, all the contingents for a course are the same price, and there is none of the 50, 90, 95 or 99 cents business to try and fool you into thinking the price is one euro less.

After we were seated, we had our aperitifs, beer for me and Perroquet (pastis, Ricard, with mint syrup) for Rosemary. We’d seen this as a new bottled Ricard offering in the supermarkets and wanted to try it. R said it smelt very much of Ricard, but tasted much sweeter. A homemade version with a less sugary syrup could be the solution. Our orders were then taken by the same delectable waitress. While we waited, we were served a good amuse bouche, which we decided was a thick vegetable soup.

I had: Fish in a package (but not called en papillote) with basil plus a salad of (much to R’s approval) double-podded broadbeans and cabbage. Confit Alpine lamb with an aubergine and cumin (oddly translated as caraway) caviar, and potatoes. Followed by a selection of local cheeses.

R had: Poached egg atop Mediterranean vegetables. Veal with quinoa salad & sage, followed by faisselle (a local cream cheese) served with a portion of very fragrant Baratier honey

The pink Provencal wine was delicious; whenever we drink it in a bar or restaurant, it is good, whenever we buy it in a supermarket, it leaves something to be desired.

Back at the campsite and vegging out for the afternoon. Ah, R has finished another book and is worried at this rate, she may have to read one of my Asimovs. I do not see a problem. We watch out for Red Squirrels.

Villerest 11th 12th September

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We had a long drive today, setting off at 10:19 from Jen and Bev. A stop on the way at the supermarket, a few minutes before we arrived at Villerest where we were stayed at the Camping L’Oree du Lac.

The campsite was open, but most of the facilities had closed the previous week. No bar, no shop and no swimming pool. Only a small loo & shower block was open, and I had to cross my legs in the morning waiting for a cubicle to become free.

But R found the camp cat and was suitably impressed. Later she spotted Puss with a harness and quizzed the owners. Seems they were to go on holiday and wanted Puss to be trained to a lead, so she could go too. Fat chance, thought R, especially as Puss was seven.

The morning was spent walking around the area, first along the lake in a pretty deserted resort area with beach, swimming pool. One restaurant was open and we stopped for a pleasant beer. We followed a walk and ended up in the town of Villerest. Some quaint houses, but no shops and no real bars. We did chance upon a tabac / post office / bar (Le Grand Logis) where we drank a couple of glasses of a very pale rosé from Provence. Very good. R managed to buy “stamps”.

Stopped off at the Marie where there was a loo, with a nearby well. We continued our walk which took us down to the river Loire. You couldn’t actually get to the river, just fleeting glances through the trees. Here it appeared to be flowing fast, the only water would be from the outlet of the hydro electric dam further up, immediately below the campsite.

I walked over the dam, to take some photographs. The bright sunlight was now blotched by clouds and a thunder storm started to brew, followed by much banging & flashing. After darkness we did get a few drops of rain, but we’d eaten and were secure.

The dam appeared to temporarily stop flowing both nights at 18:00.

Jen and Bev 9th-10th

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Packed up from Arcais in the dry and set off for Jen and Bev. First stop was fuel as we were low, Google maps allows you to plot a route and then you can ask it for fuel stations on route. It also has helpful information as to whether the fuel station is open, (important information on a Sunday in France), and also a rating as to its popularity. So we chose a fuel stop on the way and replenished our empty tank, some 110 Euros.

On the way we stopped at a popular Aire Claude Bonnier where we had stopped previously and ordered chips and steak hache from a van. Masses of trucks down the road stopped for their enforced Sunday rest day.

Hardly a kilometre down the road, R (eagled eyed for such things) spotted a “Bric a Brac” aka “vide grenier” aka “car boot”. We stopped. R not impressed by the only Ricard glasses & carafe on sale, but she did buy two old cast-iron laundry irons. She wants them as bookends, for her newly culled library. The owner felt she needed his gas fuelled offering, but she quickly demonstrated its uselessness in supporting “livres”. He regarded us with a “nutty tourists” air.

Arrived at Jen and Bev’s and parked the van with some dexterity on their gravel in front of their house. R delighted to renew acquaintance with Jen’s cat Wilma, who must be 16. Lotty dog ran around in tight circles at 90 mph in great delight, full of joie de vivre. Hector dog retained his dignity.

This year, our bbq outside, cooked by Bev, with many accoutrements supplied by Jen, was not cut short by a thunderstorm.

On the Monday we set out to the village of Oradour-sur-Glane. This village has been preserved with its ruined buildings from June 1944 when the German SS rounded up all the men, women and children in the village and murdered them. A very few managed to escape. 642 of its inhabitants were massacred. Dreadful. A sombre reminder of man’s inhumanity to man.

Afterwards we had a beer in a local bar to brighten us up and then headed on home. The evening meal was at a British restaurant which served large beers and had a British menu. We all ate curries of various types. Mine was a hot curry, and it was definitely a hot curry, not catering for the French taste.

Arcais 6th – 8th September

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Today we packed up the van and left the campsite for Arcais, some five hours drive. A short break, with an hour left to drive, where we went to the loo and drank a coffee.

We arrived in Arcais at 16.21. We chose a pitch in the usual location by the lake and watched a man wade around the pond trying to retrieve his fishing tackle. The van was soon readied, so we walked up along the water ways to see the Eatons who gave us a very good pork supper.

Our next day was a lazy stay at home day. We walked up to the Eatons after breakfast, spent time on the Internet and at lunch. Linda and Rosemary disappeared off to a charity sale, come car boot sale.  R ended up buying 4 glasses to replace the one she’d broken on our first day. In the evening we walked back to the campsite along the canal with bat detector on. We heard bats, but also some other strange sounds at 20Khz which sounded more like a throbbing engine. (I have heard these since and they are quite localised in a tree. Some insect I expect. Wasps fanning in a nest??)

On Saturday we all went into Niort and searched for somewhere to eat. On the walk into town we passed books being given away, (for a donation if you wanted, R never saw the donation bit). R bought a Simenon, and was amazed to see it was first published in 1931 and Maigret was portly. Mike was keen to eat at a particular Thai restaurant, but it was alas closed on Saturdays, but said the patron with great pride, open on Mondays. Does that actually help?? We discovered a new Thai restaurant which did takeaways, and had some tables on the street. The food was fine, but not chilli hot, instead toned down for the French pallet.

Walked around the city and ventured into the old part where there were some fine buildings.

Back in Arcais for the evening, we all ventured to the “hippy bar”, which is open three months a year and has some live music. Tonight, we were entertained to some French Hip-Hop music. R surprised herself by thinking some of it was not bad.

Beautiful bright starlit evening in the campsite.