Category Archives: Suffolk

Thorington Hall

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We had booked Thorington Hall, a National Trust holiday house in Suffolk, for the week. We’d originally booked it for 2020, but….. We headed over there on Monday afternoon, unloaded and moved in. The house was bordered on one side by a host of golden daffodils.

The Hall has Tudor origins, wonderfully sloping floors, large rooms and a quirky layout. Some doors were locked; we suspected this was cos stairs were just too uneven for safety. Previous owners had left their mark in graffiti on one window’s panes and witches marks on the nearby staircase. A magical place to daydream.

The weather was amazing – wall to wall sunshine every day. You could look up at fantastic blue skies and then be quite astonished at the lack of leaves on the trees. Was this to be the summer of 2020??

The next day, first thing, we headed to Tesco in Colchester for a big shop. I dropped off Rosemary and Selina there, while I went over to a BP garage to charge the car. (I was at 40% but wanted a charged car for trips during the week.) It was reported back to me that this was the largest Tesco Rosemary has ever been in, with a whole section in one aisle dedicated to grated cheese! After lunch we took a walk along the river and across fields to Stoke-by-Nayland, returning to Thorington Hall to welcome our first guests.

Magnificent magnolias were spotted on our walks, but we never saw the rumoured otter in the v local river. It did not look like otter country. Perhaps it had been a mink?

The kitchen was well equipped and suitably large with two dishwashers, fridges and freezers and four ovens. The 6-slice toaster came into its own very early on. We didn’t however use all the kettles, nor the urn. Steve served a cooked breakfast every morning, bar our last. Each couple cooked one evening meal during their stay. Standards were very high, and tummies very full!

The Wednesday activity for the walkers was an eight-mile walk to Stoke-by-Nayland, then down to Nayland with lunch at the Anchor Inn and back to Thorington Hall. Those electing to stay in the Hall settled for chatting over a quick lunch of snackrells & a bottle of Cava.

Thursday was the turn of Dedham where we dropped a car off, so that those not wanting to walk the whole route would be able to drive back to Thorington Hall. The walkers split into two groups, the fast and the slow (ie Rosemary & her supporters). When the fast group reached Dedham, I picked up the car and drove to Stratford St Mary to pick up the slow group and delivered them to the Sun Inn in Dedham where we all had lunch. After lunch and a look around the village, the walkers returned to Thorington Hall, while I drove the others there.

Friday, we drove to Flatford Mill, where R was excited at seeing her first cowslip of the year, and from there we walked to East Bergholt for lunch at the Lion Brasserie. We managed a table outside in partial sun. The loos (along a corridor from a very impressive wine storage area) were particularly good; the men’s toilet had a showcase of old shotgun paraphernalia. After lunch it was a return walk to Flatford and then back to Thorington Hall for supper. Our doggy guest turned up with her owners so was able to open her special box of NT goodies. She thoroughly approved of them.

Saturday, we travelled to the coast, parked in Frinton and walked to Walton-on-the-Naze, where lunch was at The Victory. Walton-on-the-Naze appeared rather run down. I have also never seen so many beach huts. We walked back to Frinton and then home.

Sunday was spent driving to Shotley Gate and admiring the Marina and the container ships across the estuary at Felixstowe. There was an Evergreen container ship, the Ever Aim, the same length as the Ever Given which had become infamously stuck across the Suez Canal. If we had stayed until the early hours of Monday, we would have seen Ever Given arrive. A snack lunch was drunk and/or eaten at the Marina Cafe.

Monday, we packed up and left by10.00. The cleaners had all arrived promptly, one in her BMW. It was sad to leave a beautiful house which had given us all a great deal of pleasure.

Birthday Boy

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Back in October we took Morrison the Campervan to Southwold, our fifth visit to Southwold with the van. We have been there several times for my birthday, eating in the Swan Hotel for lunch on the day. Following after my grandmother, she used to stay in the Swan for her summer holiday. They do some delicious food, and have their own twist on the Negroni cocktail.

This year we arrived a couple of days before to an extremely high tide (Full moon, Northerly wind and Global warming). Our first stop was thwarted by the high water. We drove past the campsite towards the Harbour Inn on Blackshore, only to find the road was flooded by the high tide. Morrison waded through several deep floods, but the nearer we drew up to The Harbour Inn, the deeper the waters became. We later discovered the pub was closed because of the flooding, unlike back in 1953, when rowing boats delivered the beer to a seriously flooded pub. Instead we found our pitch at the campsite (not flooded) and walked into Southwold for a beer at the The Crown.

Next day we were blessed with a lovely sunny day, and ventured along the Blackshore, stopping at a fish and chip restaurant for some oysters as well as fish and chips. Walking back towards the town, the day became darker, with a little rain and rainbows over Southwold.

Friday we took the foot ferry to Walberswick and picked up some lunch at a small deli called the The Black Dog Deli, and continued our walk back to Southwold crossing over the River Blyth on Palmer’s Lane. The Black Dog Deli appeared to me to be a meeting point for coffee and men of an older age. This bridge had been closed during the Summer season for repairs, making it extremely profitable for the ferry company. Back into Southwold for a pint at The Nelson. Was nice to see a pub which was only selling beer and no food. Great Nelson memorabilia.

Sunday, my birthday, was another rainless day. Meandered into Southwold for our lunch at The Swan, a beer in the bar to start with, and then into the Still Room to dine. The Swan serves some excellent posh nosh, so we typically spend several hours there enjoying our food and company. After lunch a gentle walk back to the van to veg the rest of the day away.

On the road to recovery after over-eating, we spent the next day walking along the river and then heading over for a light snack at Old Hall Southwold Café. We found this place last year. Service is a little slow, half term, and all the kids around had seemingly come to buy their Halloween pumpkins. After lunch we walked back to Southwold, past the railway centre and then into Southwold to visit the museum. The railway centre has very little track and was closed. Southwold used to be on a railway line, but all those disappeared years ago. The museum, despite our many visits always seemed to be closed, but this week it was actually open. R delighted to find a link to Penelope Fitzgerald amongst the exhibits, so re-read The Bookshop (set in Southwold) on her return.

Waiting for my next birthday in 2022!!

Southwold Birthday Treat

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At last, we had a few days away from home in our home from home campervan. The second time we have been away this year. We did manage a break to Iceland just before the first Lockdown. Now we were away to Southwold to celebrate my Birthday, again a couple of weeks before the second Lockdown. Last year I spent more than 60 nights in the campervan, Rosemary a few days less (fewer festivals}. This year the campervan has not been used for a whole year, (yes, my last birthday was the last time Morrison the campervan was used.) The VW has been regularly charged and goes for a short drive every month or so when it is dry to stop the wheels going square.

The VW has still cost money for maintenance during that period.

  • A repair to the screen washer pipes, the existing pipe was fragile and the constant opening and closing of the bonnet (hood) caused the washer pipe to break. This is something I could fix, with the aid of YouTube and eBay.
  • The time the bonnet (hood) locked firmly shut, so it had to go to the local garage to be freed and a new locking mechanism inserted. YouTube did not come up trumps, a video of someone cutting a hole through the bonnet to release the catch did not seem the way to go. Instead, it went on a ramp, and our white knight engineer managed to release the catch from underneath.
  • The time I decided to see if I could get the spare wheel off, and grease the spare wheel locking nuts. Of course, a weld failed which held the thread to cradle, and the wheel was no longer secure. Another visit to the garage for some simple welding.

But now we were away for three nights away. We set off early, at 7.am so we could go to St Peter’s Church in Wenhaston for prayer time. Wenhaston is very close to Southwold and Blythburgh. The church has an amazing five-hundred-year Doom Painting of the Last Judgement. The Doom Painting was discovered in 1892 when the chancel was being restored. Some old whitewashed wooden boards blocking the upper part of an arch were removed and thrown out into the churchyard ready to be burnt. Overnight there was a torrential rainstorm and some of the whitewash was washed off, revealing the paintings below. The paintings created a stir among students of late medieval art. The painting was probably created between 1500, and 1520. Some of the details in the painting are intriguing. Look for the imps taking a ride in the scales weighing the good deeds against the bad deeds. The detail eyebrows of the devil. We had the church to ourselves with the vicar, who pointed out the details and explained the history.

Our next stop was the Harbour Inn on the Blackshore in Southwold. Arrived a bit early for lunch, so a coffee outside while we ordered. Thankfully we were early so they could feed us with their reduced seating. I ate a grilled pair of slip soles, caper & cockle butter, Wangford greens, new potatoes. After lunch, we drove into Southwold and had a wander around. Then we went on to the campsite and set up. Afterwards, we walked back into Southwold and visited the pier. We were surprised at how nice the pier was. We were taken by the painting of George Orwell, not knowing he had lived in Southwold. There was also the slightly rude clock sponsored by Thames Water.

The marshes, fields and estuaries were covered with Geese, who would on occasion move off to another location with a loud noise.

Saturday was my birthday, so after opening cards and eating breakfast, we went for a walk into town across the golf course. We arrived at the Swan Hotel for our prebooked lunch. Started off with a pre-prandial drink, Negroni (well, variation thereof) of course and a G&T (First Rate) for the lady (Rosemary). I went very fowl for my meal, eating roulade of pigeon, baby leek, poached plum with hazelnut for starters, and breast of guinea fowl, braised flaked leg, roscoff onion, carrot, pickled blackberries and gel, and watercress for the main course. Rosemary ate roast Suffolk chicken breast, radicchio, pickled enoki mushrooms, pear, barley, pancetta salad with maple dressing for her main course. I finished the event with a number of Suffolk cheeses.

We walked back slowly to our van, for the rest of the day, somehow avoiding the early evening torrential rain & high winds.

Sunday was another fine day, the rain obliged to fall during the night. We went for a walk along the river Blyth and ended up walking to Old Hall Cafe and Walks. They were extremely busy with their all-day breakfast. We didn’t need a great deal, tea had been booked at The Swan, so opted for a cappuccino, and a (very good) sausage roll. The walk along the Blyth was fascinating, the waders, old windmills, and the farmland seemingly below sea level.

We walked on, heading for The Swan (again!) for tea, where we met up with Bob and Liz. The tea was one of those affairs where you get plate loads of savoury dishes, follow by plate loads of sweet dishes. The Scotch egg was excellent, cooked with savoury herbs. It was so yummy. We did go away with our doggy bag which I used for my late evening meal back in the campervan.

Southwold for my Birthday

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We headed off to Southwold on the eve of my birthday. The drive to Southwold is quite a long way, more than three hours. Google had us doing a shortcut on country lanes from the A14 to the A12. Disaster stuck behind a large sugarbeet lorry on its way back from Bury.

Arrived at the site, we had not booked as there was plenty of space on the website. We checked in, and there was the response, “sorry no space”. But the field was empty, though looking again we could seek the lakes across the grass. After some consultation, it was decided we could use a hard standing area for the two nights. If we had been staying longer, we would have been out of luck. As it was, the campsite staff were going to have to cancel many of the weekenders.

We parked and quickly headed over to the Harbour Inn for lunch, a light lunch because we were going to have supper later. Despite the sun being out, it was a tad chilly sitting outside, in the shade behind the pub. Would have been better at the front. Anyway, we ate inside.

A walk along the footpath across the fields, over the golf course to Southwold, was somewhat fraught. The far end of the field was flooded, and there was no way through without wading in water. We backtracked and walked along the road, then across the golf course. Arriving in Southwold we seemed to attract people who started to explain where the museums were.

We looked through several shops, even visited FatFace, but ended up not buying anything, other than some chocolate twists for breakfast. Walked back to the campervan along the coast road. We set up for the night. Then we dressed for dinner and headed out to the Sail Loft. The card behind the bar asked if we had booked, we said no, so he, looking at all the empty tables, said fully booked, in half an hour a huge crowd of people were arriving. Damn, what were we going to go, asked him if there was any way we could eat. He relented, only joking. I swore at him calling him a Ba****d. (He laughed!)

We sat down, me with a Ghost Ship and R with a G&T and we ordered out supper. Here we had a large meal, starter and main. R did not do justice to her mushroom risotto. I did struggle with my two-course meal but was not vanquished.

Back to the campsite for an early night.

Next day was my Birthday, opened my cards, ate our very nice Co-op chocolate twists and headed into Southwold. Today it was due to rain, so jackets were required. First on the day’s events was a tour of the Adnams Distillery. When we had booked we were the only two on the tour, today the tour appeared to be full.

Having some time to spare, R pounced upon a market stall and bought a couple of tops, I don’t know who was more surprised, me or her.

We were shown a film, then taken to the distillery. Immediately before entering the distillery, there is a room with several small stills where the distiller experiments with recipes and they also hold their gin making taster courses. There was one in progress when we arrived.

The reflux stills were shown to us and explained. In these, they make the Vodka required for the Gin making process. Apparently they make three Vodkas, one using barley grown and harvested only a few miles away. Their Vodka is not filtered and retains some of the flavours from the malt. This was especially noticeable with the Vodka made from rye. Apparently Adnams has twice won the best Vodka in the world prize, beating the Russians and Poles. There were two more stills to be seen, one still a more traditional whisky type one.

Down now into the stores, where we see the barrels. Their whisky is stored in fresh French oak barrels, so not flavoured from bourbon or sherry. They decided not to compete with Scotch whisky. Now the important bit, the tasting. We started with the different Vodkas, and then the gins. Different gins based upon the different Vodkas, plus some extra botanical differences. Each Gin was tasted neat, and then with tonic. Finally, there were whiskies to be tasted. As the tasting progressed, the conversation turned from almost silent, to chatter and then loud conversation.

Finally over, we headed to the Adnams outlet shop to buy some Vodka and Gin. Now it was into the Swan for the birthday lunch. We were seated in the Stillroom restaurant and ordered our drinks. I ordered a Hopped Negroni, and R a fizzy Rose. My Negroni came with a thin biscuit topped with Marmalade. The full ingredients were Adnams Copper House Gin, Campari, Adnams Port, Cherry, Beetroot, Adnams Dry Hopped Lager & Adnams Broadside Marmalade. Not like a normal Negroni, not bitter, sweeter.

Starters arrived. I ate Local Seared Pigeon Breast, Butternut Squash Parfait and Pickled Girolles. Very nice, though the breast was a little overcooked. R ate a Heritage Beetroot, apple and candied hazelnut salad.

A bottle of Viognier accompanied the starter and mains.

The main course arrived, Seared Halibut, scorched gem lettuce, blue meat radish, chilli, soy gel and mussel broth for S. Very good. R launched into her Suffolk roast pork tenderloin, breaded cheek, orzotto, parsley root puree, charred leek and truffle. While in Suffolk, the Suffolk pig is a must. So much free-range pork in Suffolk these days.

The rain was starting, and Rosemary seeing the market stalls closing, suddenly jumped up, rushed out and bought another top. The alcohol must have been loosening her inhibitions.

We finished with a double espresso and a one Apple & Wild Wave. As we were leaving the doorman suggested we have a drink in the bar, it was hammering it down outside. So another drink. Later we headed on out and back to the campervan for a relatively early night.

In the morning we packed up and headed off. I thought I would drop in on the G…s, friends of my parents from years back. So we headed over to East Green, and as we arrived a vehicle was leaving driven by Robert. Introduced myself and we had a short chat, he was off and could not stay around, but gave us directions to where Tony and Jeanette now lived. Not far away, so we visited them. They were very surprised to see R and me at their door. We chatted with them for over an hour. In their 90s and still very sharp.

It was then back home for us. The next day washed and cleaned the van before putting it away for the next few months.

Latitude 2019 Sunday

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Rosemary had selected a play about William McGonagall, the Irish born Scottish weaver who has been lampooned as the worst poet in British history.  His poem “The Tay Bridge Disaster” was regarded as the worst in English literature. Gary McNair,  Joe Douglas and Briano performed A biography of the late Dundonian Poet – Sir William Topaz McGonagall written in ‘almost rhyming verse’!

After a very entertaining play, we searched for the photographer Rankin, having heard him talk previously. We were expecting him to be explaining his photos and giving hints on how to take great portraits. No, there was a huge queue to be photographed by him. So instead we headed to the comedy arena to hear Milton Jones a dour, droll, monotone, brilliant comedian. Listen Here

After Milton Jones, R and I split. R to hear some bookish talks while I went to see Palace, followed by Pale Waves at the Obelisk Arena. Pale Waves had been introduced several years before on the BBC Introducing Stage, now they were signed and playing the main stage. Later tonight they would be back at the BBC Introducing Stage for a special show.

Met up with R and rushed over to the Faraway Forest Clearing to hear Danny Does the Crossword. The audience tries to complete a Guardian crossword in record time. Unfortunately, with the large crowd it was difficult to hear what was going on, so we quickly departed.

Palace and Pale Waves

R and I headed over to the smaller stages in the woods. First, we watched No Vacation, an American band who had just started a UK tour. They talked animatedly about how they had to take a small boat to reach the stage. After them, we went to the BBC Introducing stage where people were sitting on sofas watching bands. First up was Dakar Audio Club, and then on next, a rap band called Binbag Wisdom.

Finally, it was the second set for Pale Waves.  

That was it, another view of the projections on the bridge, but we had now finished Latitude, wandered back to Morrison and bought the most disgusting cheese toasty I have ever tasted.

We left early next morning before most people were up, and headed to Beccles where we filled up Morrison with fuel and us with coffee.

Latitude 2019 Saturday

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Bright sunshine and short torrential showers today. As I thought, the loos were an issue and I went to the next field where there were more loos. Today the festival was busier with the weekenders here. Both Rosemary and I queued up to listen the Helen Sharman talk about her selection to be an astronaut.  This was then followed (late) by Rankin the British portrait photographer. He was interviewed and commented on the photographs he had taken of various famous people. He was there for the weekend, and you could go and have a portrait taken. He commented that to be a professional now, you had to get into film making as well. The entry to photography has become democratised by the mobile phone. He has 70 people in his production company.

After lunch we were almost caught by a heavy shower, luckily we were in the Carlsberg area under cover when the downpour hit us during the early afternoon.

We tried the food demonstrations and watched some chicken being BBQed. The chef originally started out selling wood as the London Log company, got into selling hardwood charcoal, and ended up supplying UK top chefs with charcoal to use in their kitchens.

There were a couple of good bands in the evening, Stereophonics and Underworld. We didn’t see any. R was finding it all a bit hard work, so we walked back to Morrison, stopping at the CO-OP to buy some wine to drink.

Latitude 2019 Friday

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Today was the first full day. Rosemary wanted to see some talks in the Faraway Forest, and the talks at the Space Shed looked interesting. I had a few such talks planned throughout the day. I went to see a band play at the main Obelisk Arena. It was an Afro-Punk ban called KOKOKO!. Very interesting band and I was up close to the stage as not many people were watching. The members were all dressed up in orange boiler suits. After they had ended, went back to find Rosemary in the Faraway Forest. She was bitterly disappointed, the Space Shed talk was crap, and geared around kids. We hung around the area but decided not to watch any more of these Space Shed talks. Rather disappointed, ended up eating lunch and having something to drink.

Back at the Obelisk Stage, I watched Anna Calvi, from a distance and then close up. I do think they do add too much bass into live bands, which makes them rather difficult to record. Much of the video I took went blurred when the base came in. It vibrated the phone so hard.

Today was a showery day, we missed most of the rain, darting in and out of tents to listen to people, or to drink some beers.

While wandering around, we tried the Sunrise Arena where we had nice surprise and saw an Irish punk band The Murder Capital

During one rain period, R and I listed to Mystery on the Rocks, apparently a podcast. (Each week a new guest enters the bar and attempts to solve an unsolved real life mystery alongside the regulars. Hosted by Masud Milas, Chris Stokes, and Sooz Kempner.) This was their first live stage discussion. They take some crime mystery, in this case, the death of a man in a room in New York City in 1929, a classic locked-room mystery. They discuss the crime, trying to solve it while making and drinking cocktails and singing. Sounds weird, but it was quite an enjoyable  

R and I went to see the band ‘She Drew The Gun’, unfortunately, this was unlistenable to because of the poor sound quality with overpowering bass. So we went off to prepare for George Ezra. Unusually the Obelisk Arena has a number of seated areas at the back where the oldies can sit. Managed to find a place to sit and watch George. The rain held off during most of the performance. It was a good show with fireworks at the end. One new feature of festivals these days are the volunteers who do the deaf and dumb signing of the song lyrics. How on earth can they keep up with the lyrics?? But they do and judging by various faces watching them, it is a very worthwhile service.

We walked back the campsite, over the bridge where moving images are projected into a water spray, and then back to Van Morrison on his pitch. Tired and I think Rosemary found it all a bit of a strain.

Latitude 2019 Thursday

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I had managed to persuade Rosemary to come to the Latitude Festival at Henham Park, near to Southwold in Suffolk. She was trapped into coming with the promise of several authors who were giving talks.

We set off on the Thursday at 11.20, around the M25 and then up the A12 through Ipswich and onto Henham Park. The last few miles were slow-moving, and we arrived at around 15.30 with a nearly empty tank. We were ushered into the general campervan field and parked in our row. There were plenty of VWs, traditional. the more modern T5s and Californias. Stacks of larger mobile homes, awnings and BBQs. Once parked, and my new 100 Watt solar panel attached to the battery, we made our way to the wrist band exchange.

The camper van site was huge, and the number of toilets was very limited. There were even a set of composting toilets being operated by Water Aid at an extra price. I was a bit shocked at the limited number of loos. I think the presumption is that most of the motor homes have their own toilet facilities. I did often walk into the next campsite field to use the toilets there.

We walked to the main arena, quite a long hike taking nearly 30 minutes. The general campervan site is the furthest away, you pass the general camping, the family campervans, then the posh camping and then through the retail village before arriving at the entrance to the arena.

Quite a pretty place, lots of woods and lakes and pink sheep. We didn’t do much, just wandered around getting our bearings, eating some food. We did go to see Imelda May in the Hallowed, ended up at the wrong stage, realised too late and could not get to see her.