Les Mourres and Forcauquier

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Our last day had a little less Geology, with more emphasis on the historical and sightseeing. The geology was Les Mourres, a barren area with rock pinnacles rising up. This all started 25 million years ago. The pinnacles were islands of water plants and primitive seaweeds which became embedded in the limestone deposits as deposits were laid down. Over time the limestone was eroded leaving the harder rock to survive, hence the grotesque shapes.

Next, some sightseeing in Forclquier where we wandered through the narrow streets, bought some pastis and then made our way up to the Citadelle. Here we had a picnic lunch and then walked back down for a beer in a bar. The final stop was to the Salagon Museum and Gardens. The Gardens have areas dedicated to Provence agriculture, so there were many lavender varieties. There were also planted areas of medicinal herbs, and finally a world area planted out by continent and country of origin.

There was an issue with their guide which ran from a Samsung galaxy phone. The idea was good, it knew where you were and tried to show you what there was to see. In practice, most of the devices didn’t work for long. We could have been there longer, so much to see. We didn’t get to look into the church.

Back at the Cruis was our final meal. A continuous supply of pizza from the wood-fired pizza oven. The pizza oven was indoors and had been used for most of the cooking throughout the week. The pizzas were good, probably was one of the best meals we had during the week. Seems two of the chaps on our trip have built outdoor bread ovens. Much discussion as to design.

Verdon and Vultures

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A small group of able-bodied strong males and females headed off down the mountain in Wiz’s 4×4 to try to rescue the stricken vehicle. They took a huge jack and rope. The rest of us stayed on the refuge for breakfast, and then walked back down to the one van at the barrier. Here some geology took place. Examining the map of the Geology of the area and trying to see it in the rocks. Only started to work when it was figured out exactly where we were standing.

Afterwards, some of us went down in the van, while the rest walked down to the D17. The stricken van had been rescued. The advice of the Anglo Saxons had been ignored, which was just to tow it out of the hole. Instead, fruitless work with rocks and jacks was performed. This would apparently have gone on for some time. Luckily some French foresters came along, they looked at the problem and advised towing the van out. This was done with no issues.

There was an ancient Roman wall near the junction, some bits were quite stable, other bits totally trashed. While the walkers came down, the guides asked a few to go mushroom hunting for supper. As I arrived down I heard the guide throwing most of the fungus out with cries of Toxic, Toxic.

We headed to the Otherside of the Verdon Gorge to Rougon. This windy road had a lovely stopping place where we could view, Belvedere de Trescaire bas. The cliffs were vertical and we were told this is the highest verticle drop in France. The French guide had climbed it with her father when she was five. The vultures were flying and I photographed some fabulous pictures of them. You could see their nests on the other side of the canyon. Oh, there was a sole climber, on the other side.

We continued down the gorge and at Col d’Ayen stopped. Here took a photo of a mating butterfly and other insects.

At Chapelle Notre-Dame de Beauvoir, we duly admired the star hanging between two rock outcrops.

Soon we were back at Cruis, where the rest of the group were dropped off, and we were left at our campervan for a well-earned shower and clean up. Soon we were back at Wiz’s for supper and wine.

Verdon and Mont Chiran

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Today we packed some extra clothes and sleep sheets. We were going to be staying out tonight. We were headed to a mountain lodge on top of Mount Chiran. There was a small observatory there where we would be able to observe the stars. The timing was such that the moon would be fairly new. Apparently we should have been there the previous day. Luckily there had been an error in the booking. The previous evening it had been cloudy, and the group who had booked the lodge that night had seen nothing, being covered in cloud. Well, there had been storms during the night. We had seen them and heard them. The new day was bright.

We headed to the Verdon George, stopping near to Blieux to examine some rocks. A short distance nearby was some Marne Bleu and Gres d’Arnot in Barreme flysch sequence. We continued driving East along the D21 and D4085 with views towards Lac de Castillon. In Castellane we turned back West and drove along the Verdon river and D952 stopping for lunch at a Le Mur D’Abeilles. We all had a jolly meal. The views of the gorge from here are fantastic. Several vultures were spotted. None close enough for a decent photograph.

After lunch, we headed to Mont Chiran. The drive was along the D17 road which soon became a dirt track. Somewhere along the D17, we turned off onto a smaller dirt track. Here only one vehicle would proceed, the track was too narrow for the larger van. We headed on up to be dropped near to the top vehicle access point. Van went back to pick up the others. Little known to us the other van was now stuck. the ground had collapsed under its rear wheels. A problem to be solved in the morning.

There was now a trek up the final track to the refuge which was at 1905 meters. The refuge was basic. Two bunk beds per room. There were a shower and toilet to all the rooms to share. They were not operational, no water. There was some basic lighting. The actual loo was a sawdust type loo with a view, perched on the edge of the mountain.

The refuge guardian prepared supper for us. A basic three-course meal, with huge gaps between each course.

The views from the top were gobsmacking, especially as the sun went down. In some of the pictures looking East you can see the shadow of the Earth which gives you the red and blue curved lighting effect.

After supper, some of us went to the observatory where we viewed the moon and various planets. Jupiter & Saturn were visible.

The Pelvoux Massif and Variscan sheeted dyke complex

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Left our campervan at 9.00 and walked up to the road to await the vans. Today we were heading North to the Ecrins National Park. We even took the peage today. Our guides had previously staged clear of it. Stopped at the final peage for a loo break. Then another drive into the mountains.

First, we stopped near to Pouillardencq on the D57 where we photographed the distant mountains. Back in the van for a few miles.

We stopped along the D985A near to Saint-Firmin and donned our Gillet Jaunes to view exposed outcrops of rock. One French driver asked us what the demonstration was about! We were able to see dykes. I think it’s amazing to think this area was under the sea, R not so amazed. These Dolerites were fine-grained and made up of hundreds of sheets with thicknesses from 50cm to two meters. Doleritic rocks of this grain size are constructed from numerous small dykes in the Oceanic crust.

We moved off to a river for lunch and then examined the metamorphosed granites. I built a rock pile, which was knocked down by Donny, our geology expert. It was built on one of his prized exhibits, an Augen Gneiss. Augen, from the German meaning eyes, is a coarse-grained gneiss resulting from metamorphism of granite, which contains characteristic elliptic or lenticular shear-bound feldspar porphyroblasts, normally microcline, within the layering of the quartz, biotite and magnetite bands.

We revisited the road stopping place once more for some more viewing. Managed to spot a small wasps nest.

It was back to Wiz for supper where we had a Pastis tasting evening. As the evening came to an end, a storm approached. Lovely displays of lightning and thunder. We were back in the van before the rain came, though we were met by the rain on the trip back from the loo.

Digne Les Bain and the Esclangon

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Left the campsite on foot at 7.40, and were picked up on the main road at the top of Mallefougasse. Our first stop of the day was just outside Digne to see some ammonite fossils. These were right beside the road in a layer of Jurassic mudrocks. You could see several layers, only one layer has these large ammonite fossils. The Rosso Ammonitico Veronese Formation was spectacular.

From here we drove up a spectacular valley with windy roads, steep valley sides. We were aiming to get to the start of the walk up to the abandoned village of Esclangon and beyond, to a view of the “Velodrome”. A few miles before we reached the point, there was a roadblock. Road workers were working on stabilising the cliffs. A discussion was held, and the road was going to be opened during their lunch break. Luckily this was not an issue, as we were also due to stop at the modern village of Esclangon, a couple of miles back.

Here we parked and walked to see some rock outcrops in the nearby woods. In the area, we found some special rock called Carngeules. These are originally are evaporites, which are very weak rocks, and are often exploited by thrusts. Also in the distance, we saw a row of pinnacles.

Back in the vans we were now able to head through the roadblock and stop at the bottom of the walk up to Esclangon. Before we started the walk up, we headed along the road to look at the formidable cliffs. Here we were at the base of the Tertiary, and some Jurassic limestone.

It was now a walk-up, first to the old village where we ate out packed lunch. There was a church here and a closed art exhibition. Also nearby was the original open washing area. We continued the walk up to a pinnacle where there is the viewpoint for the Velodrome. The viewpoint has a spectacular view of the valley and rock outcrops. The view shows an entire sedimentary sequence which is deformed by a very large recumbent syncline and is cut by a major thrust. Apparently it is one of the best exposed, easily accessible and largest tectonic folds to be seen anywhere in the world.

Now it was time to amble back down the path, and back into the vans. It was late enough for the road workers to have finished work and the road was open. Back at Les Mees, one van stayed there for drinks, while others headed back. We headed back as we had to move and I wanted to do it in the daylight.

At our campsite, we packed up, I showered. We were given some of our camping fees back. The French guides then escorted us to our new spot nearer to Cruis. We would be camping in the garden of a gite Mas des Grailles. This was owned by A french man and his English wife who was the translator for the group. The visitor part of the gite was not in use, so we could use the loos and shower. We were also plugged into their electricity.

The journey to supper and back was now a lot quicker, though still had to be done by van. Three course supper based around pasta and an aubergine accompaniment, and lots of wine.

Back at the gite we duly met the dog (a ridgeback) and the cat (black). These had a totally free range. It was disconcerting walking to the loo, you passed the dog in its bed. It totally ignored you.

The Durance River and Sisteron

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Today we were picked up by the graveyard and started our geological education. Our first stop was at Ganagobie, a high point overlooking the Durance River. Here you could see the river terraces aged between 15,000 years and 3.5 Million years. The terraces on the tiver were caused by glacial unloading and tectonic uplift. Some of the terraces took a bit of imagination to see, though roads would hint at a terrace as they tend to follow them.

Next stop was down in the valley to the village of Les Mees where there were Les Penitents. A fine set of cliffs composed of continentally deposited conglomerates and sands. This is a classic example of Molasse deposits. They were produced in the main alpine mountains in the North and transported south by an early reiver Durance 5Ma years ago. The cliffs in parts look like columns, caused by erosion, giving cliff pudding forms which look like frocks.

The formations fueled the imagination of our ancestors. The points on the rocks were said to look like hoods of monks. The legend says they were punished for ogling young women. Their superior decided to petrify them. It is said when mercy is granted, time will resume and the monks will fall into dust. This appears to be happening because on December the 2nd a rock fall damaged several houses.

Back on the road, we stopped across the river from Sisteron where we could get up close to the Roche de la Baume. Here there were fabulous folds in the Cretaceous rocks. Rocks are magnets to climbers, and we were not disappointed. Fossils were found in the limestone.

Across the river was the Sisteron Citadel where we had a tour guide waiting for us. We learnt how this strategic point has always been fortified. It was also the only crossing point of the Durance for over 100 miles. Napoleon on his way to battle the British crossed here. Vauban a fort designer wanted to improve the fortifications in the 17th Century. He was to fort designs as Capability Brown was to gardens. Unfortunately, at the end of WW11, the Allies bombed the fortification, destroying the church.

We headed back, first to the campsite, later we were picked up for dinner and eventually deposited back after a lovely meal. It was now made clear to us that we would have to move the next day to a place nearer our dinner.

France and Mallefougasse-Augès

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In the morning all the men had left from the chalet. The residents of the ridge tents had also left, leaving a couple behind to strike camp and pack away the kitchen, presumably they would make camp at the destination of the cyclists. 

Today we were moving on down south to where our geology course was taking place. All the others on the course were staying in gites in the village of Cruis. They were in walking distance of where our evening meal was being served. We were going to be camping in the next village along called Mallefougasse. This had been agreed, and we would be picked up before supper, and dropped off there afterwards.

We managed to pack away and head off before 10, down South. The road out of Vizelle was a long uphill road. It banned buses and trucks over 7.5 tonnes from coming down. The views were quite spectacular, but peculiar seeing signposts to Vizelle in the direction we were heading. We stopped off at Gap to do some shopping at an Auchen Drive. Large supermarket, and also parking on more than one level. Walking back to Morrison we were concerned to see a woman randomly driving around in one of those small French cars you can drive without a licence. She seemed to be clueless and we did become concerned with the safety of our van.

We continued down past Sisteron on the toll road and turned off at Espace Saint-Pierre and headed to Mallefougasse on a twisty up and down road. Arrived on to our campsite Camping Lou Pebre D’Ail. Fairly basic, a few static caravans and a couple of motor homes turned up after us. There was a group of pylon painters on site. They would leave early in the morning and come back in the evening after dark to eat and drink.

The ‘madame’ was not on-site, we phoned a couple of numbers and were told to settle in and they would come and collect the money. We paid for the eight nights we were going to stay.

The next day we read our geology books, had a lazy day and walked around the local village of Mallefougasse. It was a very small village, did have a restaurant, but don’t know if it was closed or open. There was also a church with some fascinating bells. Despite being small, the village had a Marie, a football pitch and a large recycling area.

In the evening we were picked up by Wiz, and whisked to her house in the next-door village. She was providing the evening meals and our packed lunched. At her house we met the other members of the Geology Society, plus friends Viv & Bill, had some preprandial drinks and a fine meal with wine. I enjoyed Wiz’s Provence inspired cooking, many of the ingredients coming from her gardens, or deposited by a local hunter.

At witching hour we were driven home by one of the French guides. I did sense there might be an issue on our drive back.

France and Vizelle

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We packed up just before the rain came in, and headed off down south to Vizille. This is about halfway between Bonlieux and our geology trip destination.  We drove along mainly departmental roads and got a little fed up with the constant roundabouts and slow-moving traffic. At this campsite seems google wanted to take us up a one-way street the wrong way, so ended up driving into Vizelle town and back out on another road to the campsite. Being the end of the season, half the site was closed, including one shower block and the restaurant. This site has many small chalets around the edge of the site, a disease taking hold on more and more French campsites. Thought we were going to be disturbed by one chalet where there seemed to be a group of young men who talked quite loudly. They seemed to go quiet very quickly.  Masses of rain during the night, and early morning.

Wednesday 25th

Rain eased off and we walked into town carrying our wet weather gear. Not needed as the sun came out and it became warm. We visited the Museum of the French Revolution in the town’s chateau. Vizelle apparently was the centre of the early part of the revolution and provided a safe place for meetings after the Day of the Tiles in nearby Grenoble. Lunchtime came and we were expelled from the museum. Interestingly, only a one hour lunch. Ate lunch at a small café outside the museum. After lunch a walk around the formal gardens of the chateau. Some odd art structures in the gardens. Plenty of birds on the lakes.

The actual town appeared to be rather closed, several restaurants did not open and many shops looked shut.

Our men in the chalet again quiet after most disappeared in the evening. But at 2.30 am they re-appeared and had loud conversations for the next hour or so.  Still, they were up early in the morning to go off to whatever job they had.

Thursday 26th

A sunny day ahead of us, so this time we did not take any wet weather gear with us. We went to the chateau gardens, but this time into the wilder part, following the rivers up the garden all the way to the deer park. The chateau gardens, both formal and wild are a formidable resource for the town. People out jogging, walking, sitting etc.  Watched the deer, and then walked back to the chateau and another restaurant for lunch. Again had a formula meal, this time three-course lunch. 

After lunch we went to sit in the formal park near the water to watch the ducks, geese, swans (including a black swan) and the fish.  Oh and a little snooze.

Back at the campsite, a number of ridge tents had been erected and a large number of people were there. It seemed to be an organised cycling group, with lots of small tents and one large central cooking team. Our men were quiet tonight, going to bed shortly after dark.

France and the Jura

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Thursday 19th

Set up the day before, so off at 6.30, a very good journey around M25, except for the bit before the bridge where it becomes the A282. A good pub quiz question. Does the M25 circumvent London? No there is a gap at the Dartford crossing where the M25 becomes the A282. Arrived at the terminal, hoping to be put on an earlier crossing. No luck, very busy there with loads of tour buses, and yes the crossings were also all delayed by 30 minutes. This time, we ate breakfast in the van and did not pay the exorbitant prices in the terminal. At security, we were grouped into 6-8 vehicles and made to wait. Our steering wheel was swabbed, and security staff wearing white gloves went by each car touching every door handle. The gloves were taken away for analysis, and then, after presumably passing the explosives test, the whole group of cars was allowed to proceed. This was the first time crossing the channel I have encountered this procedure.

Arriving in France it was cloudy. Soon brightened up as we headed inland. Our intention was to drive to the East and not travel too far South. The weather down South was pants. We would remain in the Jura for a few days and then head south when the weather conditions reversed. This trip we were driving on the toll roads to make fast progress.

Our first stop was at Châlons-en-Champagne in the municipal site. There were warnings in the ACSI guide about rowdy grape pickers. Indeed there were many Polish grape pickers there. Half the site was allocated to their tents and canteen. We never did hear them, though a few of them brightened up the campsite. (We failed to spot any nearby grapevines.)

I had intended to drive farther, but R does not like arriving later than 6. After setting up we had a chat with our neighbours. They turned out to be a British couple who drive over here every few months to buy Champagne from a small producer. They were very cagey about who the producer was. They also warned us about the honey seller who dutifully arrived to sell his jars of honey. We were able to sit outside for supper, and after dark. It was not totally freezing. Oddly enough, Mrs Neighbour professed great interest in geology and hence our proposed expedition.

After sunset, we walked to the pond, listened to the bats on the bat-detector and watched them feeding.

Friday 20th

We were off to the Jura today.  Most of the drive was on the AutoRoute. Stopped off for lunch at an Aire. This time quite a clean place. Ate our sandwiches in the sun. At around Dijon, we headed East towards the Jura. Stopped at an Intermarche to fill up and buy some food. There was a good display of local produce and some quite tasty Jura fizz. Much to R’s surprise she found some glasses that she had bought on a visit a few years ago, but had failed to find since. Possibly because she’d never look in an Intermarche?? She bought another set, but wondered afterwards whether she should have bought two sets.

Arrived mid-afternoon at the campsite in  Bonlieux. The reception was closed with a notice to visit the restaurant outside the campsite. Checked in at the restaurant. The site was on a slope, but nicely terraced. Each pitch had its own hedge with a large tree in the border for shade. The tree was not so useful for those who tried to tune in to satellite TV! Quite private, but not claustrophobic. Sunny weather still. Mobile phone connection is rubbish here, and data downloads almost non-existent during the day. Early morning and after 9.00 in the evening, not so bad.

We camped at the bottom of the site, with a walk-up some steps to get to the loos and showers. We are due to stay here for a couple of days, until the weather breaks.

Saturday 21st.

Today we went for a walk. Decided to do the Hedgehog Falls. In French, it sounds sexier, Cascades Du Hérisson. Seems like there is a circuitous route to take.  We started off walking on the road (2K), before turning off onto a track to the top of the falls (2K). The Hedgehog Falls are a series of six waterfalls which you can walk down alongside. The pictures in the leaflet and on the web show some spectacular falls. For us, they were not spectacular at all. The first fall, I had to walk right up to before I saw it. The trickle of water falling down was almost invisible. On our walk down, R was accosted by a young lad who showed her Wikipedia images of the falls as they should be. We were all disappointed. Still, we met a group of photographers on the walk down. I suppose we were at the wrong end of a dry summer, so could not expect to see a full-flowing river.

We saw a man cycling up a portion of the path leaving markers for the next day’s triathlon. R gave me a look to warn me not to move any markers.

We also saw a couple of dippers on the walk down.

Still, the trek was enjoyable, down through wooded areas with a sometimes steep path down. We arrived at the bottom and then tried to find the way out. Nope, there was no way out on foot, other than back the way we came. Yes, there had been a path signposted Bonlieux, but it had a notice saying it was closed.

R was daunted by the prospect of walking all the way back UP the falls (it had taken 4 hours to get down). So I decided to be chivalrous and leave her (temporarily!). I raced back up the falls, the road and to the campsite. Back at the van, I removed the canopy, lowered the roof and made sure there was nothing likely to fall off the shelves and drove off to pick her up. This is where things went wrong. The internet connection was so bad, I could not get Google Maps to plot me a route. I had to drive with my eyes on the map, went wrong several times and took almost as long to drive to her as it had taken to walk up. Oh, the walking route was a little over 6K, the drive to the bottom of the falls was over 20K.

Sunday 22nd

Today was meant to be a rainy day, but it seems overnight the forecast had changed and the wet weather was back a few hours. The morning was spent lounging around in the sun finishing books. After a small lunch, I headed out for a quick walk around the local lake. This lake feeds the Hedgehog Falls. Many small fishing/rowing boats were moored in the lake. Very wooded around the lake and forestry tracks travelling for miles. Lovely marked tracks ideal for off-road biking along well-made tracks.  Saw several small red dragonflies on the walk. Back at campsite some small brown damselflies. After a 5-mile walk, still no rain.

Managed to cook supper and eat outside. Just as we were clearing away the rain came in, and now likely to be persistent all night until midday tomorrow.

Monday 23rd

Not much done today, we did walk into the local village of Bonlieux. Everything closed up. The bar/restaurant was closed. A typical rural French ghost village. Last night our bins had been raided by some predator with paws.  It could not open the sealed bin but had distributed the contents of a plastic bag around the inside of the canopy.

Tonight as we were leaving, we had taken the canopy down in the dry, so most of the waste had been thrown out. But during the night we heard the small bin being moved around again. I bravely and quickly opened the van door and spotted a fox running off into the hedge. The waste bin, still unopened was now several meters away with a slightly chewed handle.

Some Sadgits Get Together in Oxford

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We met Andrea, Richard and Jon at Claydon House. After we arrived, we all walked to the cafe and had a quick meal, before having a tour of the house. Much of the house was under repair because of serious cracks in the ceilings. Furniture had been removed and stored in other rooms. It was likely to become worse before getting better. After the tour, we went home for supper and copious amounts of whisky.

Saturday we met up with Ravi and Simon, plus his daughter & her family. We found Ravi, Simon and family in the Peoples Vote March. I heard Caroline Lucas giving a supportive Remain talk. There were a few leave people giving the Remainers a hard time.

Afterwards, we went to the Branca Restaurant for a good lunch and then a walk around University Park.